Governors Island: The Birthplace of New York

New York wasn’t born on Manhattan, but instead on a very unlikely place in the harbor. 

Governor’s Island, just sitting out there in New York Harbor.

Governors Island is a little-known island near the tip of the island of Manhattan, seen but rarely visited by most. Although well-known to native New Yorkers, for the tourist horde it is just an average inaccessible island teasing you from the harbor. That could not be further from the truth, and in fact the Governor is quite perfect for a summer holiday. You just have to use the slip next to the Staten Island Ferry to get there.

The old fashioned Battery Maritime Building, next to the Staten Island Ferry.

Governors Island is a peaceful retreat from the bustling city, with much to explore. Here you can find forts that once defended New York Harbor, artist colonies, a high school, a very large park where you can rent bikes. Or if you want a really fun adventure….military barracks.

Arriving at Governor’s Island.

So peaceful…

The first European to see Governors Island was the great explorer Giovanni de Verrazzano in 1524. The Native Americans had named the island Paggank (Island of Nuts), a name that had stuck around for a while in various forms.

Giovanni de Verrazzano sporting a hipster beard before it was cool.

In May 1624, the first settlers of the Dutch colony of New Netherland landed on Noten Eylandt (Island of Nuts). These 30 families disembarked on the island, their first landfall in the new world. It was on Governors Island that the colony of New Netherland was formed. In other words, it was on this island what would later become the state of New York was founded. In 1633, Governors Island was first used as a military base, established by the fifth director of New Netherland, Wouter van Twiller. He later founded a farm on the island. The British took over the island in 1664.

During the American Revolutionary War, General Israel Putnam tried to fortify the island with earthworks and cannons in anticipation that the English would return. They did, and the Americans lost New York for the rest of the war.

After the war, Governors Island (which officially got its new name in 1784) was turned over to the state of New York and was no longer used for any military purpose at first. However, tension between the United States and France, then the British again, led to refortification of the island. The U.S. government refitted Fort Jay (which was built by the state in 1794) and two new forts, Castle Williams and Half Moon Battery.

Half-Moon Battery, now used for something else apparently.

A more substantial Fort Jay was rebuilt over the original Revolutionary War earthworks that weren’t very successful at defending the harbor. Now part of the National Park Service, the new Fort Jay was a star shaped structure made of earthworks, granite and brick, complete with a moat. It was later updated during the Civil War, when it served as a holding prison for Confederate officers waiting to be transferred to other larger prisons. Fort Jay was officially retired by the U.S. Army in 1964. However, it was still used by the Coast Guard until 1996.

Library of Congress

Fort Jay from the air, taken in the early 1980s.

Castle Williams may be the most striking structure on the island. Visible from the harbor and Lower Manhattan, Castle Williams was built between 1807 and 1811. Located at the north-western tip of the island to serve as a defense system for the harbor, the fort is 40 foot high and has sandstone walls 7-8 feet thick. The casements of the fort later served as barracks during the Civil War, for both Union troops and Confederate prisoners. In 1915, it officially became a military prison. The floors and roof were reinforced and steel bars were added for the cells, which can still be found today.

Castle Williams is still impressive today.

The interior of Castle Williams, complete with steel bars.

One of the casements. Cannons used to be placed in here and pointed out where the window is. The walls are extremely thick here and could withstand a direct hit from a ship. These made perfect cells when it became a prison.

Solitary confinement. Summers would have been miserable in here. Although the guy at the end of the block did have a window.

Amazing view from the top of Castle Williams.

Governors Island is much larger today than when the Europeans first laid eyes on it. By 1912, 103 acres were added to the island. Building the subway had given the city almost 5 million cubic yards of dirt that had to go somewhere, most of which ended up on the southern half of the island.

Liggett Hall which served as a barracks during World War II, housing mostly women serving in the Women’s Corps. The building is huge, spanning across most of the island. Through the arch is the southern landfill portion of the island, now a park.

The Army left the island in 1966, handing it over to the Coast Guard. They occupied the island for 30 years, improving and expanding the structures on the island, which functioned as a small self-contained village. The Coast Guard vacated the island in 1996, returning the island to the state and city.

When that announcement because public, the city and state governments, along with private developers, jumped at the chance to redevelop the island. In 2001, President Bill Clinton designated 22 acres of the northern part of the island as Governors Island National Monument, including Castle Williams and Fort Jay. The rest of the island would be sold to the city (for $1) to be used by the public.

While most of the Coast Guard era structures have since been demolished, many of the Army era barracks still survive to this day. Along the quiet streets of the island, you will also find the former officer houses that are now used by artists and non-profits. The oldest house on the island still stands and so does the lovely Admiral House that is supposedly open for visits (probably on the weekends). There is even a neighborhood around a small park with houses all painted yellow.

The oldest house on the island, the Governor’s House built in 1813. The Governor never lived here. Although the English governor did have a house nearby.

The Admirals House, constructed in 1843.

One of the very yellow, very matchy officers’ houses. There are a bunch of these around a small park, Nolan Park, in the middle. Brick houses were later built by Liggett Hall.

The old Catholic Chapel and the buoy, a hang out spot for kids.

Colonels Row, where you can find the newer officer’s quarters facing Liggett Hall. It’s amazing houses like this can still be found in New York City.

Today, Governors Island is still in the process of being redeveloped. The New York Harbor School relocated to the island from Brooklyn in 2010. New York University is moving part of its campus to the island. Recently a park that stretches from the center of the island to the southern tip has opened for the general public to enjoy during the summer.

Governors Island is a great place to retreat to in New York Harbor. Quiet and peaceful, Governors Island is much different from the rest of Manhattan.

To Visit:

Take the 1 train to South Ferry or the 6 train to Battery Park.

Go to the Battery Maritime Building (the old fashioned terminal next to the very modern Staten Island Ferry.)

Go inside and ask for a ferry ticket. It was very inexpensive ($2 round ticket when I visited in 2016).

Best views of Lower Manhattan by far.

Check out some of my other posts featuring the great New York City!