York, England is a magical town full of unique medieval buildings still preserved to this day.
Located in Northern England, York is one of the most visited places in Great Britain. With its long history of Roman, Viking and English occupations, you can see why it is a hot spot for history lovers. York is also unique because it has retained much of its Medieval flavor; the entire city is a living museum full of Roman and Medieval ruins, Viking named streets, the mastery of stonemasons, and Victorian flair.
With so much to offer, York was a perfect place to visit for my birthday in June 2012*, only a couple hours on the train from Leicester, where I was going to school. Best decision ever. For two days, I strolled throughout this amazing city, visiting museums and the cathedral, and watching street performers. However, it was the Medieval age of this city that truly mesmerized me.
York has been settled since at least the Roman period, where it was a colony. After the fall of the Roman empire, York (then known as Jorvik) was settled by a bunch of Vikings in the 9th century, later to be conquered by the Normans in the 11th century. All these eras are represented at the Yorkshire Museum. This museum is not just some ordinary museum. It was built on the grounds of a ruined abbey, St. Mary’s Abbey. The museum not only contains Viking helmets, but also entire archways from this former abbey, whose ruins can be seen right next door (parts are actually under the museum).
Reconstructed archway from the ruined abbey.
Ruins of St. Mary’s Abbey.
The botanical gardens outside of the museum also contain part of the city walls, which are in remarkable condition, parts of them can even be walked on. The section of the walls in the park still shows their original Roman foundations.
The Roman/Medieval Wall. The Roman portion can be identified by the red brick layer (common to Roman walls) near the bottom.
Many of the original stone gates still survive, Monk’s Bar the finest preserved. Constructed in the 14th century, Monk’s Bar served in the 16th century as a prison and the portcullis is still in fine working order.
Monk’s Bar looking good for its age.
York was a trading hub during the Middle Ages and by the 15th century until the 17th, York controlled the northern cloth trade. The Merchant Adventurers’ Hall is a testament to that era. The fine timberwork is some of the best in Europe and the largest in England and the oldest guildhall still standing and being used for its original purpose. The hall is still used by The Company of Merchant Adventurers of the City of York, although now a charitable organization.
Outside of the Merchant Adventurers’ Hall, which is now much lower than the modern street level.
The Great Hall. I love the wooden beam architecture.
Not far from the Merchant Adventurers’ Hall is the famous Shambles. The Shambles is a street full of old Medieval timber framed buildings, some dating back to the 14th century. Once full of butchers (the area got its name from the Anglo-Saxon description of the area, Fleshammels (literally ‘flesh-shelves’), the street is now full of a combination of eateries and souvenir shops.
The overhanging buildings of The Shambles, now a major tourist destination. You can find a ton of tea shops and chocolate here.
One of my favorite things from York is Whip-ma-whop-ma-gate, York’s tiniest street. The name of the street was first known as Whitnourwhatnourgate (meaning “what a street!”). It was later changed to its now famous name which is Saxon for “neither one thing nor the other.”
Yep, that is the entire street.
Some of the best hidden details of York are the bosses (basically wooden faces on corners and ceilings) and wooden statues located around town. The most famous is the Stonegate Devil, but there are many others, along with the Medieval staple, the gargoyle.
Stonegate Devil, located on the street known as Stonegate.
This guy made me laugh.
Gargoyles on St. Martin’s.
A visit to York would not be complete without a visit to the one of the most impressive Gothic cathedrals in England, York Minster. York Minster is the largest of its kind in Northern Europe. Built on the site of previous Roman occupation, and subsequent churches (all destroyed by fires or war), the current cathedral was begun in 1220 and was to compare to the grand cathedral in Canterbury. The cathedral was not completed until 1472, parts kept collapsing.
The amazing York Minster. It is only possible to get a good picture of the front of this massive minster by walking down the street in winter.
Just look at that detail around the main door.
The cathedral has three towers, two in front and a central one. You can even go on tower tours to the top of the central one. I highly recommend, but it is a long hike up.
A side view of the flying buttresses.
View through the front towers from the central tower. The ruins of St. Mary’s Abbey can be seen in the distance.
The nave of the cathedral is the widest Gothic nave in England. At its west end is the Great West Window, known as the “heart of Yorkshire.”
The central nave looking impressive as ever.
The “Heart of Yorkshire.” Probably got its name from the heart shape near the top.
The King’s Screen, separating the quire, or choir/altar area, from the nave, contains sculptures of the kings of England from William I to Henry VI and has a canopy of angels.
The King’s Screen. It took me forever to get this picture, people kept walking in front of it.
Looking down from the altar towards the quire (choir area). Got to love that woodwork. They just don’t make it like that anymore.
Shot up the central tower. I love doing these kinds of shots.
The octagonal chapter house is a site to be seen and is definitely my favorite part of the cathedral. Huge stained-glass windows are located on seven of the eight sides. At the time of construction, it may have had the largest unsupported Gothic ceiling in England.
Three of the impressive windows of the chapter house.
The chapter house ceiling.
York has so much to offer. I have only shown you a small fraction of what is there. You can spend hours inside of York Minster alone. A couple of tips though, take your pictures of the interior before climbing to the top of the tower. I was so exhausted and shaky that with the dark interior of the cathedral, many turned out blurry, something I find super annoying. The photos from the inside of the church are from a return visit.
There are so many museums, including one devoted to Vikings, shops, places to explore. York is so worth the trip up from London, if you ever find yourself in England. Give yourself at least two days to explore the town if you can.
Explore more cities in my Wandering series!
* Some photos were taken on a return visit in February, 2017.
