Northern Yorkshire is a history buffs dream with its UNESCO World Heritage Sites, abbey ruins, castles and much, much more.
Day 8 of my adventure around the isle of Great Britain continues in the northern region of Yorkshire. Northern Yorkshire is a scenic region known the world over for its moors and rolling hills and valleys full of sheep. History abounds here, from small villages to World Heritage sites. Today’s adventure brought me to the ruins of Rievaulx Abbey, the UNESCO World Heritage Site at Durham, the shore and ruins of a priory at Tynemouth, and the city of Newcastle-upon-Tyne.
Google Maps The route I took on Day 8 of my 30 day adventure.
Stop 1: Thornton-Le-Dale
Thornton-Le-Dale is a quaint little thatched roof village that I was on the road to my first official stop. It looked so cute that I had to stop to take a few pictures. Apparently, the village regularly appears in calendars and on pictures on boxes of chocolates. I could so see why.
Some of the adorable cottages in Thornton-Le-Dale.
The town even has its own chocolate shop. I wonder if it sells those chocolates that has the picture of the town on it.
Stop 2: Rievaulx Abbey
The very impressive ruins of Rievaulx Abbey.
Nestled down a tranquil valley, down a very steep, then a very curvy, through a little village, was once the largest and most important monastery in England. The ruins are still probably the most impressive in England (the most impressive ones I have seen at least).
Rievaulx Abbey was founded in 1132 when St. Bernard of Clairvaux sent twelve monks, from the Cistercian order, from France to found the abbey in the hills of Yorkshire. The abbey quickly grew into one of the wealthiest abbeys in medieval England, gaining great wealth from the wool trade. The number of monks grew from 12 to 150 and 500 lay brethren and became the mother house of other abbeys in Northern England.
The front and the most intact portion of the abbey church.
Many came to the abbey because of Abbot Aelred, an author and preacher, who was regarded as a wise and saintly man. Following his death in 1167, the monks sought canonization of their leader. In the 1220s, the monks rebuilt the east art of the abbey church to create a better tomb for Aelred. Rievaulx was a vibrant community when Henry VIII dissolved the abbey in 1538. The new owner of the abbey, quickly started to demolish the great abbey, stripping it of any valuable materials.
The Monk’s Refectory where some reflecting probably occurred.
For more on Rievaulx Abbey (including many more pictures) check out the full post!
Stop 3: Durham
The cathedral and the Norman castle in Durham have both been UNESCO world heritage sites since 1986. Truth be told, I was not all that impressed with Durham. I just did not have that great of an experience there. I am not telling anyone not to go there, just be aware DO NOT GO ON A WEEKEND. There is no parking. I got stuck in line for a parking garage for a half hour. The old town is going to be crowded. The castle was closed for an event, which was disappointing. Also, after seeing all the splendid cathedrals in my travels, I did find the cathedral a little bland.
The shopping area, where all the parking was, was packed, being a Sunday, the traditional day for shopping in Britain apparently.
Durham Cathedral.
The present cathedral was built in under the Normans staring in 1093. Since then, there have been major additions and reconstructions to some parts of the building, but most the cathedral remains true to the Norman design.
Looks nice. Nothing unique. Typical Norman design.
I will admit I was a little hyped up before going to Durham. Durham Cathedral is where the Venerable Bede is buried. He was an English monk (672-735) who is known as the “Father of English History). He wrote the first book on English history. So as a history nerd, I had to see his tomb. This was basically the only thing I found neat at Durham. It was a bit of a letdown.
The tomb of the Venerable Bede. His remains are behind the door.
Stop 4: Tynemouth
I had not originally intended on stopping in Tynemouth, but after the let down in Durham. I did not really feel like going to a museum in Newcastle like I had planned. I though a trip to the beach was in order, and since I was there, some castle and priory ruins as well.
Tynemouth is located at the mouth of the River Tyne (duh!). Tynemouth has been a fashionable place since the late 18th century to visit because of its fine beaches. The most famous is Prior’s Haven, which is between the Spanish Battery and the ruins of the Castle and Priory, which are located on the headlands.
Prior’s Haven Beach with Tynemouth Castle and Priory on Pen Bal Crag. I believe the guy on the beach was writing “Keep off the Sand.” He then went off to play football (soccer) with his mates.
Tynemouth Castle and Priory ruins are located on the rocky headland known as Pen Bal Crag. The walls of the castle, along with the towers, gatehouse and keep survive to this day. Tynemouth Castle is neat and all, but the main attraction here is actually the Priory.
A closer look at the castle. It is now mostly used as a visitor center.
The ruins of the Priory. The entrance to the front of the church would have been the door on the left.
Now onto the Priory, my favorite part. The priory was founded sometime in the 7th century. The story goes that in 651, the king of Deira, Oswin, was murdered by the soldiers of another king. His body was brought here to Tynemouth and buried. He later became a saint, and his burial place became a shrine visited by pilgrims. He was the first of three kings buried here at Tynemouth. In 792, a deposed king of Northumbria, Osred, was murdered and then buried here. The third king was Malcolm III of Scotland who was killed at the Battle of Alnwick in 1093. His body was later sent north for reburial. Nobody knows where.
The back of the church. The door at the very bottom (only the top is visible) led into the chapel in the next picture.
Tynemouth was sacked by the Danes multiple times, as was the custom, but the Priory was reestablished under the Normans. However, leave it to Henry VIII to ruin it for everyone and disband the Priory again. All the monastic buildings, save for the church and the Prior’s house were torn down. The castle, however, since it was still useful, was refortified. The church continued to be used until 1668 when a new church was built nearby, and Tynemouth fell into ruins.
The Oratory of St. Mary (Percy Chapel).
Under the ruins of the church, a small chapel still survives. The Oratory of St. Mary or Percy Chapel has a painted ceiling with coats of arms and stained-glass windows and a small rose window.
Stop 5: Newcastle-upon-Tyne
Since I had arrived in Newcastle too late to visit any museums I wandered around and took in the scenery. It was pleasant enough.
Newcastle-upon-Tyne and its many, many bridges.
North Yorkshire has plenty to offer any traveler to the region, cathedrals, castles, ruins and even beaches. However, a bit of a warning, if you love to see unique, interesting out of the way places, avoid Durham. While it is a nice town with plenty to do, I personally wished I would have gone someplace else instead.
Check out Day 9 of my grand adventure, where I explore a ton of castles in Northumberland.
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Start at the beginning of my 30 days around Great Britain!
