Explorations of a city full of the most wonderful mosaics ever. Seriously, they are awesome.
Ravenna, Italy, is an ancient city, near the Adriatic Coast, south of Venice, famous for its well-preserved late Roman and Byzantine architecture. The best preserved Early Christian monuments can be found here. The best-preserved Byzantine mosaics are here. Ravenna is the place to be to step back in time to the early Christian period of Europe.
Somebody has lived in the Ravenna area for thousands of years. Now landlocked, it was once a bustling Ancient Roman port. Roman Ravenna was a grand city that later became the capital of the West Roman Empire in 402 CE, when it was moved from Milan in central Italy.
The city of Ravenna fell along with the Roman Empire. It turned into a Gothic city and then a Byzantine city, and then a Lombard city and then a part of the Papal States and so on and so forth. Let’s just say that Ravenna passed between empires constantly after the Roman Empire fell, but many of these empires left their lasting mark on the city.
Ravenna is a city of churches, like most Italian cities, but what makes Ravenna unique is all the mosaics. Mosaics were common in early Christian churches. It’s just a miracle that they have survived so intact after all this time. But before we get to them, we are going to check out a very interesting tomb first.
A very impressive and unique tomb built by Theoderic the Great in 520 CE. He was one of the Gothic conquerors of Ravenna. His body is no longer there. It was removed by the Byzantines who conquered the city from the Goths.
Now for some mosaics.
The Basilica di Spirito Santo (Basilica of the Holy Spirit) was built by Arian (an ancient sect of Christianity) in the early 7th century. The building has pretty much stayed the same.
The real gem is next door, the Battistero degli Ariani (Baptistery of the Arians). It was built around the end of the 5th century by King Theodoric the Great (as in the tomb above). Pretty simple on the outside, but amazing on the inside.
Just look at that mosaic on the ceiling. The baptism of Jesus is depicted, with the apostles around the edge.
Close up on that center image, an amazing work of art.
Now a break from the mosaics to see the central square of the city, Piazza del Popolo. (I don’t want to overload you with pretty.)
Another tomb, the Tomb of Dante Alighieri, Italy’s most famous poet.
There’s Dante.
I’m going to bore you with Ravenna’s amazing cathedral before some more mosaics.
The cathedral is much more “modern” than the other churches I’m going to show you. This is a more up to date basilica plan. Ancient basilicas tend to be less fancy in their architecture.
Next door to the cathedral is the Battistero Neoniano (the Baptistery of Neon). This baptistery is dedicated to the more orthodox early Christians (which thought the Arians were blasphemers) and was built here first, at the end of the 4th century or early 5th century CE, the oldest structure in Ravenna. It was once part of a complex, but the original church basilica was destroyed and replaced with the current cathedral in the 1700s.
This baptistery is a bit fancier to say the least. The decorating in the other one was destroyed but this one survived thankfully. Marble and mosaics and a giant baptismal font in the middle. You have to love it.
The detail is astounding.
The ceiling is just wow! It also depicts Jesus being baptized with the twelve apostles around the center mosaic.
Close up!
Now this is a church that will get a real good glimpse at what early Christian basilicas truly looked like, Sant’Apollinare Nuovo. Built by Theodoric the Great (kind see why I showed his tomb now right?) in the early 6th century. The mosaics on the interior were added in the mid-late 9th century, making them some of the best preserved Byzantine mosaics worldwide. (The original 6th century mosaics were removed because they were thought to be too Arian. Heaven forbid.)
The layout is ancient, the apse was rebuilt after WWII. The mosaics on the sides of the church are full Byzantine.
Just look at that mosaic. It stretched all the way to the apse in the front of the church. This mosaic depicts 22 virgins of the Byzantine period led by the three wise men.
Close up on those virgins.
The other side depicts 26 martyrs, led by St. Martin.
At the end, the martyrs reach Jesus and some angels.
Now to my favorite church in Ravenna, San Vitale, which is famous for its amazing mosaics. Construction began back in 526 CE on an immense octagonal plan. Additions were made overtime, but the apse remains pretty much the same since the early Christian days.
The architecture is original but there have been some changes in the last thousand years. The interior was quite plain until the 18th century, when these Baroque designs were added.
Now this is what we came for. This mosaic apse is about 1500 years old. Amazing.
Close up on the apse mosaic. I think it depicts a beardless Jesus in the center there.
The vault shows images of Jesus in the center and the Apostles on the sides.
The ceiling mosaic depicts leaves, fruit and flowers. Four angels support the image of the Lamb of God in the center.
The sides are just breathtaking. I can’t get over that green!
San Vitale is famous for a pair of mosaic panels showing the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I and his wife, Empress Theodora, completed in 547. Justinian is in the purple road (now it looks more brownish). The mosaic shows the emperor and his entourage inside this church.
The matching panel showing Empress Theodora with her ladies and a couple of eunuchs. When you see a picture of Theodora, it is usually from this panel.
Behind San Vitale is the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, built in 5th century. It is thought to contain the tomb of Galla Placidia (died 450), the daughter of the Roman Emperor Theodosius I. Someone accidentally burned the contents of the tomb in 1577. Emperor Valentinian III or Emperor Honorius and Galla’s husband Emperor Constantius III may still be buried in the tomb.
The mausoleum had room for three tombs at least and is also covered in Early Christian mosaics.
The mausoleum is famous for this one, The Good Shepherd.
The ceiling is just wow!
If you love mosaics, Ravenna is the perfect place for you. I had a quick visit back in 2012, but I am so glad I went to enjoy those mosaics once again on my last trip in 2017. These mosaics are just awe-inspiring. Just think how much work it took to place each one of those little stones to make a design that intricate. I’m so glad they have survived these last 1500 years.
Check out the rest of my Wandering series!
