They are grisly, dark and awesome! Check out the Catacombs of Naples!
As you may already know, I am obsessed with cemeteries. I can’t get enough of them and that includes catacombs. I’ve already told you all about the catacombs of Paris, so let’s move on to the ones in Naples, Italy.
I visited two while I was in Naples in 2017, the Catacombs of San Gaudiso and the Catacombs of San Gennaro.
Catacombs of San Gaudiso
Let’s start with the creepier of the two. These catacombs actually part of an Ancient Greek and Roman necropolis. Naples has tunnels underground everywhere. Tufa, volcanic rock, makes it for easy tunneling. The Roman aqueduct system for Naples was actually all underground. According to tradition, St. Gaudiosus, a bishop from North Africa, was buried around 451 CE in these catacombs.
The catacombs were long forgotten about until the 16th century, when they were used again for plague victims. In the 17th century, a large church, Santa Maria della Sanita, was built just above the ancient church (or chapel) of St. Gaudiosus.
The Church of Santa Maria della Sanita is located on a cramped street, up the hill from the port of Naples.
Honestly, it’s a beautiful church. I would have never guessed that it was above some gruesome catacombs. Below the ornamental stairs is the main crypt entrance. The chapel was being renovated when I visited, so I didn’t get to see that.
Early Christian art behind a more “modern” effigy. Catacombs are actually fantastic places to see Ancient Christian art because they were forced at first to bury their dead underground. The normal Roman practice was tombstones along roads leading out of town. (Example in this post on cemeteries.)
These slots (loculi) would have held coffins (either stone or wood) like more modern mausoleums. A little more ancient art there on the left side.
These niches would have held urns or skeletonized remains.
Now for the more gruesome parts.
Along the corridor are paintings of skeletons. That hole where the head is would have housed an actual skull. Pieces are still in there.
I may have enjoyed seeing this a bit too much.
There are quite a few of these. These were done by the Dominicans that used this catacomb for burial. They piled all the bones together, except for the head which they fixed into the wall and painted the skeletons.
I only found out about these catacombs because they were included in the Naples museum pass. It was a pleasant surprise. They conduct tours in English. I luckily got a tour to myself, and the tour guide loved my enthusiasm.
Catacombs of San Gennaro
Further up the hill are the Catacombs of San Gennaro, the more well-known of the two. The Catacombs of San Gennaro goes back to the 3rd-4th century. Four different catacomb systems (including San Gaudiso) were all connected at one point. The site was consecrated to Gennaro (the patron saint of Naples) in the 5th century and was used by Christians until the 11th century. Unfortunately, all the remains and artifacts have been looted.
The tour starts in an odd place, not the original entrance. After climbing down a metal stairway, you arrive in a large chamber with many slots. The room includes a small altar with early Christian art.
There are many side niches and corridors that would have fit even more tombs. The smaller niches may have been reserved by families. Check out that art! It’s amazing so much still survives down here.
You really have to watch your step in here. There were even tombs cut into the floor!
The central chamber is really huge, complete with columns. Most of the walls would have been painted.
Some of the wonderful art that you would have found on the walls down here.
Tombs after tombs after tombs.
I’m not sure who this is supposed to be. The graffiti has been around for centuries in here.
The original entrance to the catacombs. The system was two stories, all carved out of tufa.
Awesome little peacock.
One of the best preserved tomb frescoes, featuring some toga-wearing Romans.
I couldn’t find an explanation of this fresco, but I love it anyways.
The oldest church still standing in Naples is this one right here, founded by the 5th century.
Naples is so full of history; you can even find it underground. The Catacombs of San Gaudiso and San Gennaro are a fantastic place to explore early Naples’ history and is only two of the many places you can visit underground. Easy to reach by bus, they are a must see for any cemetery lover.
Check out the other posts in my Hidden History series!
or
Check out all my posts on Cemeteries and Tombs!
