Fort Monroe

Explorations of a historic fort on the Chesapeake Bay.

In 1609, a few members of the struggling Jamestown colony founded a small fort at the mouth of the James River, named Fort Algemon. Over the next four hundred years, forts have been built and rebuilt on Old Point Comfort, in order to guard the strategic James River and Chesapeake Bay.

Colonists had their forts and so did the British army. After the War of 1812, America decided to build its own fort on the point, especially after the burning of Washington, DC by British soldiers who easily sailed up the Chesapeake Bay.

map of Fort Monroe Public Domain

An historic plan of Fort Monroe from 1862, perfectly located on a small spit of land jutting out into the sea.

The plans for Fort Monroe, named after the president that ordered its construction, James Monroe, was realized in 1819. Construction on America’s largest fort started in earnest in 1822. It took twenty-two years. Fort Monroe is an old school bastion fort, complete with an awesome moat. Its guns faced the sea and could hold 600 soldiers in peace time, rising to 2,625 during conflict. Fort Monroe was paired with several other forts in the area to protect Washington, DC, including Fort Wool, a fort built in the center of the James River.

Fort Monroe’s most important role was during the Civil War. While the state of Virginia seceded, Fort Monroe never left the hands of the Union Army. The fort was quickly reinforced after the loss of Fort Sumter and even helped hold the blockade of the Confederacy by sending ships down the Carolinas.

General Benjamin Butler, the officer in charge of the fort, made a decision in 1861 that helped thousands of escaped slaves. The Fort Monroe doctrine concluded that the escaped slaves were contraband of the Confederate Army and as contraband, they could stay at Fort Monroe. Thousands of slaves escaped slavery through the “Freedom Fortress.” However, Butler’s policy was not always popular, but he didn’t care. Fort Monroe’s finished off the Civil War by holding Confederate President Jefferson Davis in its casemates after he was captured by Union troops.

old photo of Fort Monroe, VirginiaPublic Domain

Fort Monroe in 1907. The bridge leads to the main gate of the fort.

Fort Monroe continued to serve as a coastal defense until 2011, when the fort was decommissioned. However, in order to protect this important historical fort, President Obama used the Antiquities act for the first time to preserve the historic elements of the fort. Fort Monroe National Monument is still starting up, having been delayed by Covid. Many of the historic houses and buildings are available for lease from the Fort Monroe Authority, which took over the old fort and buildings after the military left.

I started at the far point of Old Point Comfort, mostly because I was in search of a bathroom. This is the Commanding General’s Residence, now a nice place to have a wedding.

Just some nice townhomes with Chesapeake Bay views. There were quite a few outside of the fort that look just like this.

The Old Point Comfort Light, built in 1803, was used as a lookout for British troops during the War of 1812. It is still an active lighthouse.

The lightkeeper’s house is a later addition to the lighthouse.

Battery Parrott was built between 1902 and 1904 to serve as an extra defense for the fort and the town of Hampton Roads. After WWII, the battery turned into a very cold office block until the fort’s decommission in 2011.

Battery Irwin, also built in the first decade of the 20th century. Some giant guns were mounted on the top platforms, which you can still see.

A vegetation-covered battery, or something like that, north of the fort. I’m not sure exactly this was used for.

Battery Church, according to the sign on the building. There wasn’t an wayside to tell me about it.

There are just random bunker/batteries along the shore of Old Point Comfort.

Another giant battery, Battery DeRusy. It’s open for exploration and even has some of the guns still mounted.

Now finally for the historic fort. The stone walls are covered in turf and surrounded by a moat. I’m not sure what the white building is.

Looking in the other direction, you can see the casemate, or place where they can shoot cannons out the side of the fort.

There are four entrances to Fort Monroe. Each involve an awesome bridge and tunnel entrance. The stop light helps both pedestrians and cars (going both ways through the gate) safely share the gate.

The other side of the casemates, which was turned into a museum in 1951, focusing on the history of Fort Monroe. Exhibits include the jail cell of the Confederate President Jefferson Davis, who was imprisoned here after the civil war.

Many of the officers’ quarters were duplexes and very matchy. New residents quickly moved in when Fort Monroe closed in 2011. I don’t blame them. This is a really lovely neighborhood.

Cute little church, Chapel of the Centurion.

While many of the “newer” houses are very alike, the older homes in the center of the fort are all unique, but still duplexes apparently.

This house has seen better days and surprisingly not a duplex.

A very interesting duplex. Very unique double, private porches. Porches are important in the south, especially in buildings built before modern AC.

A giant barracks located on the parade grounds in the center of the fort.

The parade ground.

The backside of the main gate. There was four separate quarters or offices around the gate, one of which has now been turned into a tunnel for pedestrians.

The very impressive main gate to Fort Monroe. This would have been the gate that escaping slaves would have run to for protection.

Fort Monroe is a very compact fort, common in the early 1800s when it was built. So, it’s no surprise that all the required buildings and residences wouldn’t have all fit inside, especially after the modernization of the military. Houses and official buildings almost surround the historic fort, taking up most of Old Point Comfort.

The Fort Monroe YMCA. One of the fanciest YMCAs I have ever seen.

St. Mary’s Star of the Sea, the fort’s Catholic church. The first Catholic church at Fort Monroe dated to the Civil War era, building the current church in the early 20th century.

Fancy office building, or maybe a barracks?

The duplexes continue on outside the main gate. There are much smaller duplexes and even a couple small single homes outside of the fort as well.

I think this was some sort of fancy barracks, maybe? It’s giving me some serious dorm vibes. Many of the old barracks and other large buildings would make for some cool apartments today. I really like it when older buildings are revamped and reused, instead of new buildings being constructed all the time.

A former barracks or a duplex in a similar style as the giant barracks in the last picture. Serious balcony goals with this one.

Last but not least, the Fort Monroe Arsenal, built about 1860. It was common practice to manufacture guns and armaments outside of the main fort in case something blew up.

Fort Monroe was not exactly what I was expecting. However, this was a last-minute visit and I was quite surprised at what I found. The fort reminded me of a lot of Governors Island in New York Harbor. However, I didn’t expect so many historic buildings and barracks around and inside the fort. It was a really neat area. Although, it was a rather short visit, I really enjoyed driving and walking around the old fort.

 

Check out my next update where I explore First Landing State Park, which has its own Jamestown connection. 

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Check out more national parks and other public lands! 

About Wandering Jana

Traveling the world to discover the past.
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