Explorations of beautiful Old Segovia, Spain.
Just slightly northwest of Madrid, Segovia was a perfect city to begin my journey around Spain. Founded by the Celts on a sizable plateau, Segovia passed into the hands of the Romans in 75 BCE. The Romans left their mark on the city, as did the Islamic and later Christian invaders. The Muslims, for the most part, abandoned the city after the conquest. After capturing Toledo (south of Madrid), Segovia became a Catholic city once again. The Catholic Queen, Queen Isabella I, was even proclaimed queen in a Segovia church on December 13, 1474. The Catholic Queen and her husband, Ferdinand II, are still a big deal in Spain today.
Segovia went through a golden age of sorts during the Middle Ages from the wool and textile trade, leading to some splendid buildings, including a castle that inspired Walt Disney. Even though the Segovia’s heyday was declining, that didn’t stop the city from finishing the last Gothic cathedral in Spain, in the 16th century.
Today, Segovia’s city center is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is well deserved, for not only is Segovia super charming, but there is also a ton of history to be found.
*I apologize in advance; this post is long because I didn’t want to write two. (#lazy)
One of the sights that Segovia is known for is its Ancient Roman aqueduct, which runs across a narrow valley. Segovia is so proud of their aqueduct that they put it on their city crest. You can see the walls of the old city on the right. The water continued to the other side of the walled town to where the Alcázar was later built.
Even though rebuilding was required during the 16th century, the aqueduct continued to bring water to the city from the 1st century CE to the 19th century, an impressive run.
The main town square of most Spanish cities is called the Plaza Mayor, and they often have a large government building on one side.
There are usually some impressive buildings around a city’s Plaza Mayor. Although, sometimes, you find a colonnaded building surrounding the plaza. There is a great bakery a bit down that street on the left. I got my first of many Spanish pastries there.
Slightly off of the Plaza Mayor is San Miguel de Segovia, where Queen Isabella I was crowned queen of Castile.
San Miguel is a typical Spanish medieval church.
The large central altar is often flanked by two smaller altars, all super ornate and wonderful.
This is the cutest pulpit of all time. Look at that little door.
Also on the Plaza Mayor is the backside of Segovia’s fabulous cathedral.
A narrow street lined by little shops leads you to the entrance of the cathedral.
The only way to get a decent look of the front of the Cathedral of Segovia is by entering the cathedral. The plaza in front of the cathedral is much higher than the streets below.
A bunch of tombs line the plaza in front of the cathedral.
It’s hard to explain the layout of a Spanish cathedral. Below is a plan of Leon’s cathedral, which was the best one I could find for this explanation. Spanish cathedrals, especially the Gothic ones, tend to have their transept, the crossing section that makes the church look like a cross, going between their choir and altar, instead of before. This can be also found elsewhere in Europe, but it’s rare, especially since many choirs have been removed. Spanish cathedrals are also unique for their retention of the choirs in general. The choirs completely block the view of the altar from the front entrance of the cathedral. This leads to some interesting seating arrangements today, with pews in the transepts, instead of solely in the naves. This probably makes zero sense.
A good example of a typical Spanish cathedral, with a short nave (green) leading to a choir (blue), transept (orange), and altar (red). There would be chapels along the side aisles (purple) and behind the altar. A cloister may also be found.
If you came into the cathedral from the front door, you would be greeted by this altar-like thing blocking your view of the rest of the church. Right behind this is the choir.
Today, a visitor enters from a side door and is greeted by the fenced in altar (very common in Spanish cathedrals).
Pews pack the area between the choir and the altar.
Looking back towards the front door, you will find the choir, a U-shaped seating area for the choir. The organ is often located above the choir.
The choir stalls are usually super ornate. Segovia did not disappoint.
Back at the front of the cathedral is this chapel, with a super fancy fence.
Now in that fancy chapel. The entire thing was covered with oil paintings.
Many of the side chapels are home to giant ornate altars.
The very fancy entrance to the cloisters.
I love a good cloister.
A very fancy chapter house.
Did this weaver ever see a real dog?
A very lovely chapel in the back of the cathedral.
The back of the cathedral, lined with chapels.
The cute street with the great bakery.
The really cool 12th century San Martin. I wish this one would have been open.
An amalgamation of a building. A bunch of buildings in Segovia have the same or similar textured pattern on its facade.
The Cathedral of Segovia from the west side of town, outside of the city walls, along with a perfectly placed hot air balloon.
The city walls of Segovia are in fairly good condition. Parts were even incorporated buildings.
Puerta de San Andres.
Another fantastic medieval church, San Esteban.
The awesome Puerta de Santiago.
Now for the famous Alcázar of Segovia, a castle, royal palace and one of the inspirations for the Disney Castle.
The Alcázar is located on a rocky crag, only connected to the city of Segovia by an awesome draw bridge. Super cool!
At this angle, you can really see that ornate detail on the castle. Such a Segovia thing.
Typical of Spanish castle/palaces, there is a fancy courtyard in the middle.
The fancy Ambassadors Room.
It is a very fancy room with a fancy Mudejar (a Moorish influenced Spanish style) ceiling. This one is made of ornately carved wood with gild.
The painting on that wall has some really creepy children. Why are their eyes black?!?
Another one of those fancy ceilings.
A very fancy hall, probably used for wining and dining. The wall was capped with a row of ornately carved kings and queens. I think?
And now the chapel, with its fancy painting ceiling.
I paid the extra 3 euros to climb the tower, while wearing a KN95, while asthmatic. It took a while for me to catch my breath.
It was a really cool view of the castle.
The views were worth the breathlessness.
Cute little medieval church, San Clemente.
San Millan. I just love the steeple tops found in Northern Spain.
And finally, the Alcázar from below.
I spent about a day total in Segovia. I probably could have spent more time in the area honestly. Segovia is a brilliant city, easily reachable from Madrid. I just found the city super charming with all its old medieval buildings. It was a great place to start my journey around Spain from.
Tune in for my next update where I head north to Burgos!
