Explorations of a picturesque walled city on a hill.
Possibly the most 16th century town in Spain, Ávila, with its dramatic stone walls, is what one dreams of when they think of old Europe. Not only does Ávila still have its original stone walls, but it also has the highest number of Romanesque and Gothic churches in Spain per capita. There are even wonderful medieval churches found outside of its city walls. Ávila is just what I needed.
Ávila is another one of those European cities that have a millennia long history. The Vettones, a pre-Roman tribe, called the rocky outcrop on which the city was build, Obila. The Ancient Romans built a typical rectangular frontier Roman town called Abila or Abela. After the Romans, the city belonged to the Visigoths and then the Moors and then the Christians, which had to repopulate the area in the 11th century since everyone ran away due to all the fighting in the area. It didn’t take long for the Christians to leave their mark and that is what we see in Ávila today.
The walled city of Ávila.
The famous city walls of Ávila were started in 1090, only a couple of years after the Christians moved back into the area. They are some of the best-preserved city walls in Spain. It did help that Ávila avoided many of the conflicts that would later destroy other walled cities. Today, they are the largest fully illuminated monument in the world. They illuminate the entire circumference of the old city. I would too if I had walls like that. You can still walk on top of the walls for half the circumference of the city.
Now for more of Ávila!
The walls of Ávila are seriously impressive.
A city gate complete with bell tower, the Puerta del Carmen. The bell tower used to be part of a convent.
The Plaza del Mercado Chico, complete with Christmas market. Christmas markets can be found across Europe throughout December to early January. Best things to get are hot chocolate and churros.
San Juan Bautista is also dressed up for Christmas.
The same stretch of walls in the daylight.
Cool old building right inside the walls. It is now a fancy hotel.
Cobblestone streets and old stone buildings. Ávila is adorable.
Heading north outside of the walls, passing the Palacio de los Verdugo on the right and through another cool city gate.
Looking back at the gate that I just walked through. Very impressive. A few of the gates of Ávila look like this one, it got a little confusing.
This is why I went out of the city walls, the fabulous San Vicente (technically the Basilica de los Santos Hermanos Mártires, Vicente, Sabina y Cristeta).
This basilica was built over the supposed tombs of the martyrs above.
That doorway is something.
The basilica screams Romanesque, even though it wasn’t finished until the 14h century. Romanesque style is famous for its rounded tops of arches and windows. It was greatly influenced from Ancient Roman and Byzantine styles, running from about the 6th-11th centuries. The later style of Gothic is more pointy.
There was a school group in the church, so I headed down to the crypt first. The martyrs were buried down here, I think. I didn’t have any cell signal down here, so the audio guide quit out.
There are still a million kids in the church, so let’s check out this fancy chapel. The red and white paint scheme on the walls is a little interesting.
Kids now gone, so now finally a look down the nave. I love a good simple Romanesque church.
In front of the altar is a cenotaph, an empty tomb or monument erected to honor people that are buried elsewhere.
This cenotaph is dedicated to the martyrs that the basilica is named after. It is entirely carved on stone. A super impressive sculpture of the Romanesque era.
I love this!
Walking around the walls a bit. The gate here is a little unique. The walls here have buildings built into them.
That tower is actually part of the cathedral. It’s like they needed a bit more room.
Gorgeous side door of the cathedral.
The Cathedral of Ávila started in the Romanesque style, but later additions added some Gothic.
Pretty in its own way.
This thing (still can’t find a name for it) is pretty fancy.
I can’t tell if that stone is painted, or it’s supposed to look like that.
There was a lot of cool old tombs in the transept.
Looking down the transept. The choir is behind that railing.
The altar with more of that weird colored stone.
Another gorgeous Spanish choir.
A closer look at that fantastic altar piece.
Behind the altar, in where that tower outside the walls is, is a series of lovely panels. Burgos had some in the same place, but much larger.
A totally different gate than before by San Vicente.
Another church outside of the city walls, San Pedro Apostol. I absolutely love that rose window; I wish I could have seen it from inside the church as well.
The walls just keep going.
And now we are on the walls. You can walk about half of the entire length.
Looking back in the direction of the cathedral (and the sun), you can see the walkway along the walls and towers. That chunky stone tower in front of the cathedral is modern. It blends in fairly well. No idea what it is used for though.
Ávila is a decent sized city with mountain views.
San Vicente from above!
This stretch of walls looks very familiar.
Ávila had always been one of my Spain must-sees. I love a good walled city. I spent an evening and a good portion of the following day exploring the walled city and a bit outside of the walls. I wish more of the fantastic churches were open in the old city, but I was happy I could explore the cathedral and San Vicente. There were more convents, monasteries and churches outside of the walls that were a good distance away and in the exact opposite direction from where I was able to find free parking. Walking the walls was a delight and there is also a city museum that looked like a good visit. (I only visited an annex.) So, if you are looking for a cute walled city, Ávila is an easy reach from Madrid.
Check out my next update where I will be visiting Salamanca!
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Start at the beginning of my travels around Spain!
I love visiting Europe during the holidays. Lights and Christmas markets in every city!