Explorations of a university town steeped in history.
Salamanca, Spain, is a super old college town, home of the University of Salamanca, founded in 1218. This university is the oldest in Spain and the third oldest western university (fourth oldest if Cambridge has its say). Just like Oxford and Cambridge, Salamanca has some history.
Like many Spanish cities, Salamanca had its humble beginnings before the Roman conquest. It was even captured by Hannibal (the guy who forced elephants to cross the Alps) at one point. Roman Helmantica was on a busy trading route. After Rome, the city was conquered by the Alans (probably on their way to Africa) and then the Visigoths and then the Moors. Because of all the fighting between the Moors and the Christian kingdoms of the north, the city and the surrounding area was depopulated. Salamanca was reduced to the rank of a settlement. In 932, when the Christians won and resettled the area. The city grew both in size and importance in 1218 when King Alfonso IX of Leon granted a royal charter for the University of Salamanca. Teaching in the city started back at least in 1130, but now everything was official. The university kept growing and with it, the city grew into what we see today. Even now, the city focuses on the university that still draws thousands of students every year.
Of course, the wonderful warm, sunny weather that I had in Ávila was gone by the time I got to Salamanca. On probably the two coldest days of my trip, I wandered around, exploring Salamanca. (I really should have been wearing my winter coat.) The city is almost divided between an old city in the center and a newer, more modern city surrounding it. The old city where all the good stuff is, so let’s check it out.
A typical Spanish shopping area.
On the way to the Plaza Mayor, I stopped by the Plaza de San Boal, a nice little plaza off the main drag.
Only in Europe would a medieval building be turned into student accommodations.
Salamanca has a very fancy Plaza Mayor.
Plaza Mayor all lit up later that evening.
San Martin de Tours. A love how that church is just tucked in there.
Other buildings wrap around the church.
I wandered around a bit until it got dark. I rewandered the same area the next day since it was too late to go into many places. Now for day two.
The first sight of the day was the awesome round church of San Marcos.
Then I headed all of the way across the old city of Salamanca to the wonderful Convento de San Esteban, with a pastry in hand. The building next to San Esteban (with the covered porch) is now a swanky hotel.
I love a good cloister, especially a two story one.
This 17th century sacristy is fancier than many churches. Sacristies held the priests’ vestments (robes) and other things needed for ceremonies.
Having a choir area above the church entry creates a pretty neat effect.
Some good natural light in this church. Impressive considering how cloudy it was outside.
A good look at that second-floor choir.
Heading upstairs on the 16th century Soto Staircase.
And there’s the choir. Very nice.
Next up was the Convento de las Dueñas. For a small fee, you can see a cute little museum and this lovely cloister.
Moving on to the Santa Clara Medieval Painting Museum. Here you can find some 13th century medieval paintings in this convent’s choir area.
The chapel is super pretty. There are also some other art on display. Worth a visit, it’s free after all.
More wandering of narrow streets.
Very cute streets.
Heading back towards the cathedral.
It’s basically impossible to get a photo of the front of the Cathedral of Salamanca, another great Spanish cathedral. The New Cathedral was built from the 16th-18th centuries and combines both Gothic and Baroque styles.
That’s one impressive organ.
So very tall.
Always look up in churches.
The altar is not all that exciting, so here’s the much prettier choir.
Another fantastic choir.
There is this decorative ledge(?) that encircles the church. It would be really cool to walk up there.
I really like that dome.
Looking down towards the altar. In Spanish cathedrals there is always this wall, covered with some sort of art or altar. Salamanca even added a nativity scene.
Things are starting to look a bit older all of a sudden.
That’s because we are in the still standing Old Cathedral! The Old Cathedral was constructed from the 12th century to the 14th century in a Romanesque and Gothic styles. Both cathedrals are still connected. It’s amazing that they kept the Old Cathedral, usually they tear them down.
Honestly, this cathedral has the better altar.
And has some really cool medieval tombs. It was hard to pick which cool tomb to show.
I am not sure whether this is a chapter house or a chapel.
This is definitely a sacristy.
Mausoleum of some sorts? There is a fancy marble tomb behind that fence.
Best view of the cathedral is down by the river.
Where you stand on an Ancient Roman bridge to see it. Got to love history stacked onto more history that is Europe.
Le Clerecia, a church that is part of the Pontifical University of Salamanca. The Casa de las Conchas, on the right, is covered with shell shaped motifs.
I can’t end this post without showing some of the University of Salamanca. This is the Patio de Escuelas. Neither of the universities I attended ever had a campus this nice.
The even have a cloister. So jealous.
How is that a university building?!? This American wants to know!
So glad I visited.
I took more than 300 photos more than what is shown above, so Salamanca has even more to offer. I visited a bunch of places that didn’t make this list. I saw so many neat things and I even didn’t make it to a bunch of museums and some of the sights in the outskirts of the city. Parking and driving were a nightmare (somehow the worse I experienced in Spain), so I didn’t want to move the car out of the parking garage until I actually had to. I had a great time in Salamanca. It must really be a university town because it was the first place that I heard American even spoken since the airport.
Check out my next update, where I explore Palencia and Plascencia!
or
Start at the beginning of my travels around Spain!
