Italia: Wandering Matera

Explorations of a city where people built their houses in caves!

Matera is a Southern Italian city located in the arch in Italy’s boot. I’ve wanted to go for a long time. However, Matera isn’t the easiest place to get to even today, especially if you were coming from the toe of Italy’s boot. Luckily, I was able to catch a bus from Cosenza and arrived in the afternoon.

Matera is a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its Sassi. Matera has been occupied for maybe 7,000 years. Although, some scholars say 3,000 years.  The Sassi are homes dug into limestone cliffs. Many Sassi would be stacked on top of each other, with walkways connecting them. Not all homes in the historic center of Matera are Sassi. However, they are also mostly built with local limestone, making Matera unique.

Matera, ItalyJana Irving

The medieval city of Matera. The houses and other buildings cling to canyon edges.

Matera, ItalyJana Irving

The top of the city, with the cathedral and other public buildings, was once called Civita, from the Latin word for city. The settlements coming down the hill were called the Sassi.

Matera, ItalyJana Irving

A very fancy building.

Matera, ItalyJana Irving

Some areas are up to 12 levels of buildings.

Matera, ItalyJana Irving

I decided to go check out the cathedral before it closed for the day. It was a bit of a climb to get up there.

Matera, ItalyJana Irving

Matera was so much fun to explore, even with all the up and down required to do so.

Matera, ItalyJana Irving

Small courtyards were common.

Matera, ItalyJana Irving

Layers of buildings.

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima della Bruna e Sant'Eustachio. Matera, ItalyJana Irving

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima della Bruna e Sant’Eustachio is a gorgeous Apulian Romanesque cathedral from the 13th century.

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima della Bruna e Sant'Eustachio. Matera, ItalyJana Irving

You enter the church from the side. There is a small gallery, a sacristy. and then a much older church under the floors of the current cathedral.

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima della Bruna e Sant'Eustachio. Matera, ItalyJana Irving

The cathedral was updated to a more modern style in the 17th century.

Cattedrale di Maria Santissima della Bruna e Sant'Eustachio. Matera, ItalyJana Irving

A gorgeous painting on a wooden ceiling.

San Pietro Caveoso, Matera, ItalyJana Irving

San Pietro Caveoso, built on its own little outcrop.

Santa Maria di Idris, Matera, ItalyJana Irving

Santa Maria di Idris, one of the churches that were carved out of the cliffs.

Matera, ItalyJana Irving

In the 16th century, the center of power in Matera moved out of the old city. By the 18th century, most wealthy elites had moved out of the Sassi to this new area. The Sassi was left for the peasants.

San Giovanni Battista. Matera, ItalyJana Irving

I took an early morning stroll around Matera on my second day. Found this gorgeous church, San Giovanni Battista.

Sassi, Matera, ItalyJana Irving

Some stacked sassi.

Sassi, Matera, ItalyJana Irving

The sassi were lived in until the 1950s. By that point, most were in bad shape and didn’t have modern amenities. However, the decision was reverse in the 1980s. Many sassi have been restored. However, there is one section of town that is not. The entire area was closed off for construction.

San Vito, Matera, ItalyJana Irving

Found a rock cut church, San Vito, that was free just randomly walking around.

San Vito, Matera, ItalyJana Irving

Very simple inside. Others have paintings on the walls.

Sassi, Matera, ItalyJana Irving

Finally the inside of a sassi. Laboratory Museum of Rural Life has several connected sassi decorated to a time period or for traditional trades.

Sassi, Matera, ItalyJana Irving

Cisterns that held collected rain water were often below the main dwelling.

Sassi, Matera, ItalyJana Irving

Many residents would run business out of their sassi, like this tannery.

Sassi, Matera, ItalyJana Irving

That thing in the wall is a press for grapes or olives.

Matera, ItalyJana Irving

Perched on the edge.

Sassi, Matera, ItalyJana Irving

A much smaller sassi, Casa Grotta.

Sassi, Matera, ItalyJana Irving

Tiny little kitchen.

Sassi, Matera, ItalyJana Irving

You would also share this space with your farm animals.

Sassi, Matera, ItalyJana Irving

More sassi down the cliff a bit.

Sassi, Matera, ItalyJana Irving

An unrestored area of sassi. You can really see the stacking of the sassi here.

Matera, ItalyJana Irving

Matera from the other end of the historic center.

Matera, ItalyJana Irving

Matera was one of my favorite places I visited on this trip.

Matera, ItalyJana Irving

Who couldn’t love this.

 

Matera was one of those cities I just loved walking around in. There are several small museums dedicated to the sassi and rock cut churches. The national museum was pretty decent as well. It would be perfect for a weekend getaway. However, it is almost impossible to get out of Matera on a Sunday.

 

Check out my next update where I explore the small Italian city of Altamura!

or

Start at the beginning of this adventure. 

 

About Wandering Jana

Traveling the world to discover the past.
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