Explorations of the largest rural cemetery in the world.
Ohlsdorf Cemetery, located in the suburbs of Hamburg, Germany, is the largest rural cemetery in the world and the fourth largest cemetery of any kind. Let’s just say this place is massive.
The first true rural cemetery was Père Lachaise Cemetery in Paris, founded in 1804. However, rural cemeteries really came into vogue in the United States, starting in the 1830s. Up to that point, most cemeteries were next to a church or were only for people belonging to a specific church or organization. Rural cemeteries were not attached to a single group, although groups can have their own sections of the cemetery. No more crowded churchyards, there is now room for large burial plots for entire families.
Rural cemeteries are meant to resemble a park. They were usually placed in an undeveloped area outside cities, although now city sprawl often reach their gates. If there wasn’t any tombstones, you wouldn’t even think it was a cemetery. Rural cemeteries in the United States tend to be more manicured than those in Europe. Germany has taken the “look like a park” to the next level.
Germany’s cemeteries operate a bit different than those in the United States and even the rest of Europe. Most burial plots are rented for a specific amount of time, 20 years or more. If the lease for the plot is not renewed, the tombstone will be removed and the plot released. The previous tenants may still be there. A way around this is the renew the lease or keep buying family members in the same plot (extremely common throughout Europe). However, this practice is starting to fade because cremation has left many plots unleased.
Ohlsdorf is extremely large. I was there for about 6 hours and maybe covered a third. There are over 10 mi (17 km) of roads and that doesn’t include all the foot paths. It’s 2.4 mi (3.8 km) long, with an average width of about 1 mi (1.5 km). In short, the photos below only show a small fraction of what I saw, which is a fraction of the cemetery as a whole.
Jana Irving Parts of this cemetery looks like a formal English garden.
Jana Irving Near the main entrance there are many large family plots with fancy tombstones like this one.
Jana Irving Spotted an European hare. Looks very similar to a cottontail rabbit just gigantic.
Jana Irving Very park-like.
Jana Irving Many people buried here.
Jana Irving A different statue than normal.
Jana Irving Family sculpture.
Jana Irving Disappearing into ivy.
Jana Irving Don’t often see a naked male on a tomb.
Jana Irving German tombstones tend to fairly plain.
Jana Irving This tomb is interested. It looks like people that died before this cemetery opened were reinterred here.
Jana Irving A guy with some serious ruffles. He was a cooperate lawyer (syndicus), maybe?
Jana Irving I got stared down by a goose while eating a snack.
Jana Irving Pretty unique tombstone.
Jana Irving This one has a lion for some reason.
Jana Irving A very common scene in a German cemetery.
Jana Irving They must have loved sailing.
Jana Irving One of the 13 chapels.
Jana Irving I love this one. There is a hawk or falcon on top, two dogs and a parrot on this side and a horse on the back.
Jana Irving Hedges define separate family plots.
Jana Irving Starting to disappear in the hedge.
Jana Irving Mausoleum of Schröder. Even though the cemetery is huge, it only has 21 mausoleums.
Jana Irving Simple, but different. I love it.
Jana Irving Some tombstones from around Hamburg were saved when those cemeteries closed.
Jana Irving They are now arranged in an open air museum.
Jana Irving I haven’t seen one like this before.
Jana Irving This looks like a reused tombstone. The burial is from 2022, and this tombstone definitely doesn’t look 3 years old.
Jana Irving German cemeteries truly are parks. Quiet parks that is. It’s normal to see people strolling around the cemetery just to go for a walk. This is the perfect place.
Jana Irving There’s another open-air museum area. These tombstones were from cemeteries outside the city gates and moved here in 1935.
Jana Irving This is a tomb belonging to a wine merchant and cooper from 1805. Maybe? It might be for guild members.
Jana Irving This one is a bit different.
Jana Irving A lot of one family.
Jana Irving Found another mausoleum. The ground in front also has tombstones. Not sure if they are buried in the open ground or only in the mausoleum.
Jana Irving A lot of open plots in this area.
Jana Irving I love when the tombstone is just a giant rock.
Jana Irving Weirdly overgrown in an area with maintained grass.
Jana Irving This cemetery is extremely park like.
Jana Irving One last family plot.
Jana Irving And one last tombstone that is a rock.
Ohlsdorf Cemetery is located in the suburbs of Hamburg. It’s easily reached by train from the city center or the airport. If you decide to go, make sure to bring some food. You’re going to be there for awhile.
Check out my next update where I am back in the Appalachians of Georgia!
or
Start at the beginning of this European adventure!
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Check out more cemeteries and tombs!
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