Portugal: Wandering Faro and Tavira

Explorations of two white-washed cities in Southern Portugal. 

Faro and Tavira are cities not too far from each other in south eastern Portugal, in the region known as Algarve. Neither are really big, nor very small, but both were fun to explore. 

Faro, the capital of the Algarve region, lies on an immense lagoon. The Phoenicians set up camp in the area back in the 4th century CE, then called Ossonoba. Then the city became Roman, and then Visigothic, with Byzantine influences, and then finally captured by the Moors in the 8th century. The city would eventually be known as Faro after the reconquest of the Iberian Peninsula by the Christians. 

After hiking 10 miles (last post), I decided it was a great idea to walk around a bit in Faro. I returned in the morning for more explorations.

Faro, PortugalWandering Jana

Can’t be a seaside city without a marina.

Faro, PortugalWandering Jana

Arco da Vila, the gate to the old city.

Faro, PortugalWandering Jana

The Palacete Belmarço, a very interesting building not far from the free parking lot.

Faro, PortugalWandering Jana

Cutest chimneys ever.

Faro, PortugalWandering Jana

The next morning brings us to the reason I really wanted to stop in Faro, Igreja da Ordem Terceira de Nossa Senhora do Monte do Carmo. Catholic church names are sometimes just ridiculous.

Faro, PortugalWandering Jana

Soooooo Baroque.

Faro, PortugalWandering Jana

Really nice church, but I really came for this.

Faro, PortugalWandering Jana

Bone Chapel!

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The chapel is built of the bones of over 1,000 Carmelite friars. Ossuaries are common in Europe, but they went to the extreme with this one.

Faro, PortugalWandering Jana

Even this fountain in the courtyard was covered in bones.

Faro, PortugalWandering Jana

Moving on. Really see the Moorish influences with this building. I didn’t see that much of it in Portugal as in Southern Spain.

Faro, PortugalWandering Jana

I headed through the Arco da Vila to the Old City where you can find the Faro’s Cathedral. The plaza in front of the cathedral is used for parking, hence the weird angle of this photo.

Faro, PortugalWandering Jana

A small cathedral with some fantastic chapels.

Faro, PortugalWandering Jana

Those famous Portuguese Azulejos making an appearance. During the 18th century, scenes were popular, basically making it a tiled painting.

Faro, PortugalWandering Jana

Even the Gothic chapel is covered in Baroque tiles.

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This one is ridiculous.

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A fancy chapel just for reliquaries? Um…yes.

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The cathedral even has an outdoor bone chapel!

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Faro’s lagoon as seen from the tower of the cathedral.

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Now for an amazing gem that is right next to the free parking area, São Francisco.

Faro, PortugalWandering Jana

So many Azulejos.

Faro, PortugalWandering Jana

Absolutely ridiculous.

Tavira is only 28 km (17 miles) from the center of Faro. The Moors also conquered Tavira, which still influences the city’s appearance today. The walls of buildings are white washed and roofs and doorways are in a Moorish style. The city’s grand medieval bridge was built during the Moorish period. Most cities in Central to Southern Portugal were greatly affected by the 1755 Lisbon Earthquake, said to be about 8.5-9 on the Richter scale, followed by a massive tsunami. Much of the city lay in ruins after the earthquake, but some of those Moorish influences can still be found. (Random fun fact: the tsunami that wrecked absolute destruction on anything that survived on the coast didn’t affect Faro. Their lagoon saved them from the onslaught of the waves, but they still had to deal with the earthquake.)

Tavira, PortugalWandering Jana

Tiles, glorious tiles. I may have a problem.

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Adorable.

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Looking down the river.

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Porta de Dom Manuel.

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Even more adorable.

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I love the tree over the door.

Tavira, PortugalWandering Jana

The 11th century castle.

Tavira, PortugalWandering Jana

Nice garden inside.

Tavira, PortugalWandering Jana

Cute little city.

Tavira, PortugalWandering Jana

Igreja de Santiago. There are entrance fees for some of the churches in Tavira. This was just the winner of the one I paid for. It won because it was open when I walked by.

Tavira, PortugalWandering Jana

More Azulejos.

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Azulejos all around the church.

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Close up on those tiles.

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That altar is kind of insane.

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Back at that adorable bridge from earlier. It’s actually a surviving Ancient Roman bridge.

Tavira, PortugalWandering Jana

Cute town.

Faro and Tavira are great places to visit in Southern Portugal. They are small and easily walkable, with lots to see. However, bring some small change for the churches. They prefer coins.

 

Tune in for my next update where I explore a couple small towns and some Roman ruins!

or

Start at the beginning of this adventure!


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Traveling the world to discover the past.
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