Explorations of two small Portuguese towns and some Roman ruins!
One of the reasons I rented a car for this trip was so I can see some of those out of the way places that are hard or impossible to get to via public transportation. This has worked extremely well in the past and it went great this time, too.
My trip got extended by two weeks. I had plenty of time to stop at those tiny places. My goal the day was to drive from Faro to Evora, with stops along the way. How did I decide? I google mapped the route and picked places along the way.
Mértola
Mértola is a small town with a very long history. Inhabited since the Iron Age, Mértola is located on the very important river for trade, the Guadiana, which reaches the Atlantic Ocean. Today, it serves as part of the border between Portugal and Spain. Due to its location on a very important and navigable river, Mértola was expanded by the Romans and then conquered by the Moors in 711 CE. Islamic influences can still be seen in the town today.
Wandering Jana Mértola is just a gem.
Wandering Jana Come on, look at that adorableness.
Wandering Jana It’s hard to visualize, but this are the remains of a 5th-8th century Christian basilica.
Wandering Jana Tombs were found in the floor of the basilica. Others were found in the area surrounding the basilica.
Wandering Jana The found a bunch of early Christian tombstones. This one belonged to Andreas, who died in 563.
Wandering Jana The castle can be seen from most of town.
Wandering Jana A cafe built right into the city walls.
Wandering Jana Heading up to the castle.
Wandering Jana Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Anunciação. This odd looking church started its life as a mosque.
Wandering Jana It is the only surviving mosque from Portugal’s Islamic period.
Wandering Jana Behind the altar is the former Mihrab, which marks the direction of Mecca.
Wandering Jana At the base of the castle is the ruins of the former Islamic settlement. There is also Roman ruins and the ruins of an early baptistery.
Wandering Jana The castle again.
Wandering Jana Did some more exploration.
Wandering Jana Love it.
Wandering Jana ery cute town.
Wandering Jana Very, very cute.
Wandering Jana Love it.
Serpa
Serpa has a very similar history to that of Mértola. The borderlands between Portugal and Spain are full of castles and fortifications. Serpa is no different, in fact that is why I came.
Wandering Jana Serpa has great walls from the 13th century.
Wandering Jana That’s a proper gate.
Wandering Jana Cool old building.
Wandering Jana Adorable.
Wandering Jana Santa Maria and the town clock tower.
Wandering Jana I think this was taken right before some dogs told me to get lost. Ah, chihuahuas.
Wandering Jana Another cool old building.
Wandering Jana Entrance to the Castle of Serpa.
Wandering Jana It was closed for lunch.
Wandering Jana The city walls went all the way around the old city. They have been at least partially reconstructed.
Wandering Jana The city goes on outside of the old walls.
Wandering Jana Not sure what is going on with this person’s roof.
Wandering Jana Portas de Beja, the most impressive gate. The arched span on the top of the walls is an aqueduct.
Villa Romana de São Cucufate
Portugal is dotted with the remains of Ancient Roman villas. These tended to be built in rural areas that were used for farming. The first Roman villa was built here in the 1st century CE. The villa went through a grand remodeling between the 3rd and 4th centuries. Most of the ruins are from this time. The site was abandoned in the late 4th century-early 5th century.
Around the 9th century, a convent was established on the grounds of the villa, reusing some of the ancient structure. Another convent would be founded in the ruins, which was abandoned around the 17th century. The convent’s chapel continued in use into the 18th century.
The footprint of the villa is fairly large. However, much of the villa ruins we see today are from the first floor, which was mainly used for storage, the production of farm products and the housing for servants and slaves. The house part of the villa was on the second floor. It had large balconies along the facade, which gave views of the surrounding landscape.
The villa survived fairly intact (except for minor remodeling for the convents) because of its constant use. It was the neglect after the site was finally abandoned and several earthquakes that did the most damage to the structure. It was thought until 1970, that the ruins only belonged to a convent. During archaeological excavation, the Ancient Roman building came to light.
Wandering Jana Right outside the villa is a 4th century temple, later transformed into a Christian oratory (small private chapel).
Wandering Jana There was also a giant pool, which probably was used as a cistern.
Wandering Jana The ruins are still pretty impressive. Most of the private area of the villa was on the no longer existing second floor.
Wandering Jana Part of the structure still has an intact roof.
Wandering Jana And it was turned into a church. In the 4th century when it was built, the structure was either used as a granary or a wine cellar. It was turned into a church in the Middle Ages. The frescos date from the 17th century.
Wandering Jana If this was still standing, not a bad place for a convent.
Wandering Jana Much more of the structure was still intact and usable until several earthquakes made it not so much intact.
Wandering Jana Trying to save the little bit still standing of this giant villa.
Wandering Jana I think it was part of the bathhouse. They planned to expand the 2nd century bathhouse in the 4th century, but the addition was never finished.
Three great places found and explored. Rural and small town/city Portugal has a lot to offer.
Tune in for my next update where I explore Évora, a UNESCO World Heritage Site!
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Start at the beginning of this adventure!
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