There is much more to this Tuscan city than its Leaning Tower.
When one thinks of the Italian city of Pisa, the Leaning Tower immediately comes to mind. For many the Tower is the city. However, there is more to this peaceful place on the even more peaceful Arno River.
The very mirror like Arno River.
Pisa bursts at the seams with Romanesque churches dating to its 11th century heyday, a time when the city was flush with wealth. Fresh off defeating Saracen invaders in Sicily, Pisa effectively ruled the western Mediterranean, something that the city-state’s building spree reflected. During this golden age of Pisa, the complex now containing the Leaning Tower was founded. Later on, the city’s influence declined but she aged gracefully, adding Baroque and Renaissance churches to its religious palate.
You can spend an entire day at the complex of buildings surrounding the Piazza dei Miracoli, home of the Leaning Tower. This walled area, that used to be on the very edge of the city, also contains a large, splendid cathedral (duomo in Italian), a walled cemetery, a large baptistery and multiple museums.
Santa Maria Assunta and its bell tower, more famously known as the Leaning Tower of Pisa.
Santa Maria Assunta (St. Mary of the Assumption) is a very large, splendid cathedral (the Duomo), built in the local Pisan style Romanesque, which shows strong Classical, Byzantine, Ravenna and Arab style influence. The cathedral was begun in 1063, on the site of a pre-existing Byzantine church, and consecrated in 1118 by Pope Gelasius II. It has a cross shaped plan, with an egg-shaped dome. The facade is clad with gray marble, set with discs of colored marble. The design of the Duomo became the model for Pisan Romanesque architecture, giving the city a unique look from the neighboring Tuscan towns.
The interior of the Duomo is just gorgeous. They have been doing renovation work on it for the last few years. This is the first time I’ve seen the interior in a while.
The interior of the Duomo was faced with black and white marble, with a gilded ceiling and a frescoed dome. The massive granite Corinthian columns between the nave and the aisle came originally from the mosque of Palermo, Sicily, which was captured by the Pisans in 1063. Originally the building was decorated with extensive frescoes, but in 1595, a fire severely damaged the building. Part of the cathedral had to be rebuilt, including the ceiling, and large paintings were hung on the nave walls. Thankfully, the impressive mosaic in the apse, of Christ in Majesty, flanked by the Blessed Virgin and St. John the Evangelist completed in 1302, survived the fire.
One fancy ceiling.
The Baptistery dedicated to St. John the Baptist (common theme in Italy) began construction in 1153 and finished in the 14th century. The remarkable round Romanesque building was later overlaid with Gothic decorations, white marble linings, and rows of serpentine stone. The structure is the largest baptistery in Italy. The interior consists of two stories of pillars encompassing an open area containing the baptismal pool in the center. Although its exterior is highly decorated, the interior is surprisingly plain, with the font and altar being the most decorative areas, along with the many small stained-glass windows on the outer wall.
The Baptistery of St. John the Baptist.
The really awesome two-story baptistery. You can even climb up to the second story.
The Leaning Tower is the most iconic building in Pisa, if not one of the most well-known buildings in the world. The tower is the campanile, or freestanding bell tower, of the cathedral of Pisa, located behind the cathedral. Its famous tilt began fairly early, only 5 years into its construction, caused by an unstable foundation. The tower was begun in 1173 and construction took place in three stages over the course of 177 years, with the bell chamber added to the top in 1372. After the lean began, later floors were adjusted to make up for some of the lean. It has recently been re-shored up to prevent more leaning from occurring, making the structure stable at least for the next century.
The infamous Leaning Tower of Pisa.
Climbing the stairs in a leaning tower is interesting, to say the least, and becomes more pronounced as you get higher into the tower and the stairway becomes narrower. If you become disorientated or dizzy fairly easily, I would not recommend it. However, the views from the top were worth the climb. Not only can you walk around the bell chamber, but also the very top of the bell chamber on a narrow walkway. Walking around in the tower takes some getting used to, much watching of feet is necessary and is totally worth the trouble.
The marble stairs going up are very worn down. It’s best just to walk there and hold on to the wall.
Don’t forget that the Leaning Tower of Pisa is a bell tower!
Awesome view from the top. I climbed to the top the first time I visited. It was a bit expensive (budge traveler standards) but so worth it. The second time I visited I spent more time in the museums around the piazza. Climbed it again on my third visit.
The Camposanto (“Holy Field”) is a walled cemetery on the north side of the Piazza dei Miracoli is often called the most beautiful cemetery in the world. I believe it.
The Camposanto in Pisa is said to be one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the world. I completely agree. Also featured in my post on why cemeteries rock!
The building of the cloister was begun in 1278, although it was not completed until 1464. The building consists of a large cloister, with the tombs located inside, although, a few burials are located in the central lawn, which is surrounded by elaborate round arches.
Inside of the cloister, the Camposanto contains a huge collection of Roman sarcophagi, now reduced to only 84. The sarcophagi were originally found all around the cathedral, often attached to the building itself. Later they were collected and stored inside the Camposanto after it was completed. The cloisters also contain countless frescoes, dating from 14th to the 17th centuries.
The sarcophagus lined cloister. Who couldn’t love this?
Fancy tombs for fancy people.
Tragedy struck the Camposanto on July 27, 1944, when a bomb fragment from an Allied raid started a fire in the building. The fire consumed the wooden rafters of the ceiling and melted the lead off the roof. The destruction of the roof lead to severe damage to the rest of the building, including the priceless frescoes. In order to restore the frescoes, they had to be removed from the walls, and are gradually being transferred back to their original locations within the cemetery.
One of the almost lost frescoes.
The first two times I visited this and the following two frescoes were in another room for preservation purposes. It’s fantastic to see them in their proper place.
Not sure what’s going on but it’s cool.
This is hell obviously because the devil is pooping someone out.
Let’s explore a bit of Pisa outside of the Duomo complex. It’s such a lovely town.
San Michele in Borgo, located on the way from the train station to the Duomo. I love the faded inscriptions on the front of the church.
Pisan Romanesque building, located on the way from the train station to the Duomo.
Santa Caterina mimics the grand duomo not far away.
Even Pisa has Roman ruins. Here lies the old bath house on the outskirts of the ancient Roman town.
The Scuola Normale Superiore di Pisa, part of the Pisa University System. I wish I went to a school with architecture like that.
Santa Maria della Spina, probably one of the coolest churches ever. It’s located right on the banks of the Arno River.
One of many adorable side streets in Pisa.
This peaceful Tuscan city is worth at least a day trip from Florence. Much more can be found elsewhere in the city; countless churches, Roman ruins, and the fabulous Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque buildings can also be found within the city walls.
Check out all my other posts in my Wandering series!
