Viaggio Italiano: Wandering Palermo, Part One

Explore Palermo, Sicily’s two most amazing attractions!

Palermo is the capitol city of Sicily, the large island south of Italy’s boot. Palermo is an ancient city with over 2,700 years of history. However, not much of this ancient past remains anymore. History, though, can be found around every corner of this city.

Palermo started its long life as Ziz, founded by the Phoenicians in 734 BCE and belonged to Carthage. It later became a Greek/Roman city with the name of Panormus. From 831 to 1072, Palermo belonged to the Arab Emirate of Sicily, which gave the city the name of Balarm. Palermo became the capital of the new kingdom of the Normans after they defeated the Arab Emirate.

Palermo is known for its amazing Norman buildings, such as its duomo (cathedral) and palace. In this post I’m going to focus on those and in my second post on Palermo, I will show the rest of what I saw in this wonderful city.

 

Let’s start with the Palace of the Normans (Palazzo dei Normanni). The building actually started as a castle or palace by the Emir of Palermo in the 9th century. When the Normans conquered Palermo in 1072 (which is only 6 years after they conquered England by the way), they built their castle on top of the old castle. Remnants of the old Arab castle can still be found in the foundations. In 1132, King Roger II added the now famous Cappella Palatina to the palace.

Only one tower block now remains of the original Palace of the Normans. Additions were slowly added to the building, and it now also serves as the Sicilian Regional Assembly. Since only the Norman tower was open, I’m going to focus on that. Plus, that’s what I came for.

The Palace of the Normans. All the remains of the Norman palace is the castle like tower on the right. Their palace would have been much bigger and would have had a large garden as well.

In the back of the palace, where the modern garden is, you can see what the palace walls would have had finished stonework like on the left. Much has fallen off since.

Looking a bit more to the left, you can see how hodgepodge the palace looks today with all the additions made over the centuries.

The Capella Palatina is a splendid mosaic covered chapel. Every inch is covered in Byzantine mosaics, most dating from the 12th century. The design of the chapel combines Norman, Byzantine and Fatimid (Arabic), an East meets west, with Byzantine mosaics, dome and church layout, Fatimid arches and ceiling and Norman architecture and doors. It’s a style seen nowhere else.

Once you head inside and go through security, you pass through a weird passageway through the foundations of the palace. Eventually, you end up in this courtyard. The Capella Palatina is on the second floor on the left.

It has a pretty fancy entrance way, although I think this isn’t as old as the rest of the chapel.

Even as you enter the chapel, you can see it is gorgeous. Just look at those mosaics and that ceiling!

The mosaic floors are just amazing as well.

The lower mosaics on the walls are just amazing as well.

Looking up the wall a baptism scene in mosaics.

Just amazing.

Turn around and even more amazing. The chapel even has room for a throne.

Look up and you get this amazing Muqarnas ceiling, a carved wooden ceiling typical of Fatimid design. Super awesome.

The pulpit is even amazing. Look at the carved marble on the support columns!

One last look up at the dome.

The Duomo of Palermo is also a big hodgepodge of different additions and styles of different eras, most noticeably in the interior. Construction began in the 12th century in the area where there once was a Byzantine church, which was later turned into a mosque. The Normans want to start anew.

The most noticeable parts of the church are its blue dome (a common site in Palermo) and its towers. The really tall ones on the left are actually part of the Bishop’s Palace next door, being the current bell towers. A set of former bell towers are next to them and then a clock tower is on the right end and its twin.  The duomo has a very castle-like appearance, very unique. Although, it does lose that uniqueness on the interior with its 18th century additions.

The amazing Duomo of Palermo. So unique in its appearance. It almost looks fortified.

The very impressive main entrance of the cathedral.

First stop during my visit was the roof climb which was really cool. Got to see some of the little domes of the chapels.

There is a cool walkway along the top of the cathedral connecting the dome to the towers.

Palermo views from the top.

Looking back towards the towers. You climb to the top using the old bell tower on the left.

Back down into the cathedral. The interior was remodeled in the 18th century.

Painted ceilings over the altar.

Near the front is a beautiful and shiny chapel. So much shiny.

A few of the Norman kings were even entombed in the cathedral. This fancy tomb belongs to Constance I (r. 1194-1198), Queen regent of Sicily, who ruled for her son Frederick II.

This tomb belongs to Roger II (r. 1130-1154), Constance’s dad. He’s responsible for starting construction of the Capella Palatina.

Another great feature of the duomo is the crypt, where of course, you find more tombs. It is reachable through the museum.

These tombs are not as fancy as Constance’s, but they are pretty special. During the early medieval period, it was common for people to reuse Ancient Roman sarcophagi. They would just carve new inscriptions on them. Some of the sarcophagi would have Christian images but most were still had pagan imagery. I’m not entirely sure what is going on in this scene.

Here is another reused Roman sarcophagus from near Roger’s tomb. Some sort of mythical scene with a lion eating lunch. This is the tomb of Constance of Aragon, wife of King Frederick, the son of Constance I of Sicily. Her crown can be seen as part of an exhibit at the church.

The coronation crown of Constance of Aragon, circa 1220 CE.

This in this post, I toured two of Palermo’s biggest attractions, the Palace of the Normans and the Duomo. In the next post, I’ll be exploring more of the wonderful city of Palermo.

 

Check out my next update where I explore more of Palermo!

Or

Check out more posts on the great country of Italy!

About Wandering Jana

Traveling the world to discover the past.
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