Explore the richness of Northern Scotland with two history-filled days in Angus and Aberdeenshire.
Angus (the county, not the meat) and Aberdeenshire are truly spectacular places to visit in Scotland. So rich in history.
Angus is important for being where Scotland’s Declaration of Independence was written, and Aberdeenshire for all its castles and myriad granite buildings. If you really want to experience a touch of Scotland, I recommend that you get out of Edinburgh and explore the richness of Northern Scotland!
Stop 1: Arbroath Abbey
Arbroath Abbey in all its red sandstone goodness.
A trip to the shire of Angus would not be complete without visiting one of the most important places in Scottish history, Arbroath Abbey. The abbey is located in the town of Arbroath, a fishing port on the North Sea. People have been living in area since the Neolithic period (c. 3,500 BCE). However, the first “modern development” in the town was the founding of Arbroath Abbey in 1178 by King William the Lion.
The Tironensian Benedictine order monks thrived in their new abbey, which took over 60 years to build. The abbey was built out of the local red sandstone in the early English Gothic style, with Norman influences.
The front door of the church. This is where the Norman influences come into play.
The red sandstone walls still stand out across the landscape. After the Scottish Reformation, the abbey fell into ruins. The locals mined the abbey for building stones, a practice that continued until 1815. Today, large parts of the abbey still remain, including much of the main church. Only the gatehouse still remains from the outbuildings of the abbey site.
This church was simply huge. The interior used to have a lot of detail but the soft sandstone, over time, was smoothed out due to weather. The interior would have also been plastered, which is gone as well.
Arbroath Abbey is remembered today not only as the burial site of William the Lion, but as the birthplace of one of the most important documents in Scottish history, the Declaration of Arbroath. This document is a 1320 declaration of Scottish Independence. The Scots had been fighting for independence from England for years. The Pope had sided with the English at this point and this document was sent to assert that Scotland was an independent kingdom longer than England has even been a country. They also asserted that Edward I of England had unjustly invaded an independent country and had perpetrated atrocities against the Scottish people. The long-term success of this declaration is questionable, but England and Scotland did sign a peace treaty that survived time in 1328.
Tomb of William the Lion (1165-1214).
A reproduction off the “Tyninghame” copy of the Declaration of Arbroath (1320 CE).
Stop 2: Aberdeen
This was taken at the Montrose Basin Wildlife Preserve, a nice place for lunch (you have to bring your own).
I finally made it to Aberdeen after being sidetracked by a wildlife preserve. Aberdeen goes by many a nickname, the Granite City, the Grey City and the Silver City with Golden Sands, due to its many buildings made from local granite. The city began as two separate burghs: Old Aberdeen and New Aberdeen, the two now make up one larger city. William the Lion (the guy buried at Arbroath Abbey) gave the city its first charter in 1179.
You can really see why they call it the granite city. It is full of this same-colored stone.
Aberdeen has seen much blood shed. The city’s castle was sacked by Robert the Bruce. He didn’t like the fact that the English were garrisoned there during the Wars of Scottish Independence. It was also ransacked a lot during the English Civil War by royalist troops. That being said, the city of Aberdeen is packed full of history.
Robert the Bruce in the town centre.
My first stop in the city was the campus of the University of Aberdeen. The university is divided into several colleges around town. My goal was King’s College in Old Aberdeen. King’s College was founded in this area in 1495, however much of the buildings date from later. King’s College is unique in the way it looks like a small Scottish town. Even though it looks like one large campus, many buildings in the university area are private houses, shops and businesses that cater to the students and faculty, keeping with the old town feel.
The mercat cross (market cross) of Old Aberdeen. Frequently found in Scottish cities and towns that historically hate the right to hold regular markets or fairs granted by the monarch or local ruler.
King’s Chapel, complete with the chapel’s Crown Tower, is the oldest building at King’s College.
I just love the ivy on this building located in the original quadrangle of King’s College.
Old Aberdeen also hosts St. Machar’s Cathedral near the King’s College campus. Technically St. Machar’s shouldn’t be called a cathedral since it hasn’t had a bishop since 1690, but like St. Giles Cathedral in Edinburgh, it stuck around.
St. Machar’s Cathedral.
According to legend, St. Machar was a 6th century Irish saint that was active in this area of Scotland. He founded a church on this spot in 580 CE. Machar’s church no longer survives, neither does much of the Norman church that replaced it. Today, what we see are additions, modifications and removals that have occurred over the centuries. The church was first expanded, then partially dismantled after the Scottish Reformation and then parts were destroyed by a freak tower collapse. However, St. Machar’s survived all this trauma and still stands today.
The interior of St. Machar’s Cathedral.
After the execution of William Wallace in 1305, his body was cut up and sent to different parts of the country to warn other dissenters. His left quarter ended up here at St. Machar’s and still is buried within in the walls today.
Not where William Wallace was buried, but still a really cool cemetery.
Aberdeen’s town centre has many attractions as well. I chose to go to Provost Skene’s House. Sir George Skene was the provost (sort of like a mayor) of the city of Aberdeen from 1676 to 1685. He is probably more known today not for his term in office but instead for his house.
Provost Skene’s House near the city centre.
The house was built in 1545 and was bought in 1669 by the provost. The house has been altered, but it is a rare survivor of Aberdeen’s medieval burgh architecture. The house was opened to the public in 1953 featuring period rooms decorated in the styles of the 17th, 18th, and early 19th centuries. Provost Skene’s house is a great example how early architecture was molded to allow for more “fashionable” interiors.
The 18th century dining room. They also have a cool 17th century one set up, but those pictures didn’t turn out that great.
One of the many bedrooms inside of the home.
Aberdeen’s town centre is also worth a wander. There are plenty of museums and other attractions to fill a day here. I wandered around the center of town and even popped into the Aberdeen Art Gallery, which has a collection of art created by local artists.
The Salvation Army Citadel behind Aberdeen’s mercat cross.
A Scottish town’s town centre would not be complete without a statue of a guy in a kilt.
Day 13: Drum Castle
Now a place that had been on my bucket list for like forever. Located not far away from Aberdeen’s town centre is the seat of the chief of Clan Irvine, Drum Castle. The castle is now owned by the National Trust. My last name, Irving, is a derivative of Irvine, so therefore I just had to visit Drum Castle and made a special day of it.
Drum Castle, more of a manor house now than an actual castle.
My visit to Drum Castle was truly remarkable. Once the docents at the castle found out I was an Irving, they gave me extra attention and I even signed a special visitors log. I got to say it was pretty neat.
Drum Castle dates all the way back to the 13th century, or at least the tower does. The tower is said to be one of the oldest tower houses in Scotland. The rest of the castle for the most part was added in 1619 by the 9th laird and “modernized” during the Victorian era.
The manor part of the castle.
I snuck a couple of photos from inside the tower.
Drum Castle was given to William de Irwyn in 1325 by Robert the Bruce and remained in the Clan Irvine until 1975, when it was given to the National Trust of Scotland for safe keeping.
Day 13 was only Drum Castle. I had stayed longer than I intended and had already made plans with a friend for later that afternoon. It was a memorable day that I soon won’t forget.
I only touched a small fraction of the history of Angus and Aberdeenshire. There is so much to explore here, from museums to abbeys to castles and much, much more. Your trip to Scotland doesn’t have to end in Edinburgh. Take my advice: Get out and explore!
Check out Day 14 when I explore Scotland’s Central Highlands.
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Start at the beginning of my 30 days around Great Britain!
