Heading into Scotland with explorations of its most famous city.
Day 9 of my road trip around the isle of Great Britain ended along the bloody English/Scottish border in Berwick-upon-Tweed. Now it was time to make the journey northward into the great nation of the Scots, and their great city of Edinburgh.
I just had to pull over here to get a picture of this sign. A very convenient scenic turnoff was by the sign. (I’ve been known to just stop in the middle of the road to get pictures, so this was nice.)
This was not my first visit to the motherland (I’m part Scottish), but it was no less special the second time around (and I’ve even visited again since this road trip). My end destination for Day 10 was Edinburgh, although there was a very important stop I had to make along the way.
Google Maps The route I took on Day 9 of my 30 day adventure.
Stop 1: Rosslyn Chapel
Anyone that has read or seen Dan Brown’s Da Vinci Code knows what this is…Rosslyn Chapel is the absolutely stunning church featured near the end. The 15th century Rosslyn chapel is located not far from central Edinburgh in Roslin.
Rainy day at Rosslyn Chapel.
The Da Vinci Code aside, the chapel is simply stunning and considered one of the finest in Scotland. Ornate carvings seem to cover every inch of the place. Scholars today do not even know what all the carvings mean, leading to many conspiracy theories regarding Knights Templar and Free Masons (thank you, Dan Brown).
Photography has been outlawed inside since 2008, but the forbidden sure is pretty.
Ya, I came here for that amazingness of that pillar.
Rosslyn Chapel is a quick drive away from Edinburgh and well worth the side trip.
Stop 2: Edinburgh
*Note: Many of the photos are from my third visit to Edinburgh in 2017.*
This was not my first time in the city, but I had fallen in love with it and had to return. After finding myself a 24-hour parking garage (Beware: this can get pricey in Edinburgh, parking cost more than my hostel) I headed towards Old Town. Edinburgh has been the capital of Scotland since the 15th century. Scotland’s capital city is one of contrasts; a city of dark stone buildings (Old Town) and bright brick Georgian houses (New Town). Both towns that make up Edinburgh are full of life and history and due some exploration.
A winding street in Old Town. How can you not love a city that looks like this?
While I found Old Town the most amazing part of the city today…things used to be different. In the 18th century, it was overcrowded and immensely unsanitary. The rich and the poor were huddled together in the city, packed in tighter than that haggis you will never actually eat.
So, the idea of the New Town came along. The rich people who had the funds to move fled to the new planned city of New Town, leaving the filth of the lower classes in Old Town. Old Town is currently, after the scrubdown of the (19th) century, a hotspot of tourism. The once squalid quarter is full of museums and historic charm.
Old Town is a city of many levels, street level and lower street level. Even during the 17th century, buildings of 11 stories or higher weren’t uncommon, with the buildings being accessible from two street levels.
I just love the contrast of the dark stone and the colorful shops. You can see the two street levels here with the walkway above the shops.
My first stop in the city was the National Museum of Scotland, which I have to say is AMAZING. It covers everything from natural history to the complex tale of the nation of Scotland. The National Museum of Scotland is a must-visit if you find yourself in Edinburgh. (Bonus: You can take in great views of the city from the rooftop terrace.)
The science area of the National Museum of Scotland.
After the museum, I headed back to Saint Giles Cathedral. It is one of the most famous landmarks in the city. St. Giles is not technically a cathedral and was only a cathedral for two short periods of time during the 17th century, from 1635-1638 and 1661-1689. Prior to the Reformation, Edinburgh was under the Diocese of St. Andrews and post-Reformation, the Church of Scotland has not had bishops, so no cathedrals. The term cathedral is basically meaningless, but it stuck.
A surprisingly sunny day photo of St. Giles Cathedral from my third visit in 2017.
The oldest parts of the building are the four massive central pillars from the year 1124. The church has been rebuilt since then, mostly in the 14th century. The church has gone through many changes since the Reformation. Subdivisions within were constructed and shops were built around the outside of the building but in the 1820s, a restoration restored the church to its former dark glory.
The interior is absolutely gorgeous. I really love the blue ceiling.
Another shot of the interior from the opposite side of the church. The pulpit is in the middle.
Outside of the church, I saw a sign for a Ghost Tour that goes through the immense underground of Edinburgh. It was priced right and started soon. I figured why not. To be honest, I was more interested in going through underneath the immense stone vaults that support the layered city than listening to paranormal murder stories. However I was pleasantly surprised, since the tour involved a lot of history about 18-19th century Edinburgh.
Our trusty guide was great, complete with cloak and candle. Got to act the part, right?
The tour went through one of the vaults that supports a higher level streets. It was built with rooms inside that were used for licit and illicit practices alike. Originally legitimately used by business, the vaults emptied of the merchants after continuous floods discouraged further mercantile action. As so often happens in a commercial vacuum, a red light district sprang up here, along with slum housing.
Supposedly this cellar was where Burke and Hare, the infamous body snatchers/serial killers, stored bodies to be sold to medical schools for medical experiments.
The vaults were later closed up around 1835 for the most part due to all the murders and robberies taking place in them. Rediscovered in the 1980s, the vaults are now used for Ghost Tours and even as a private venue for weddings. I’m not kidding about the latter.
The Ghost Tour was basically the last thing I did that day, other than wandering around, but there is much more to see in Edinburgh. I highly recommend you explore more of the city. I even went back a third time in 2017 to see more of this amazing city. Here are some of my favorite places.
One of the top places to roam is the Royal Mile, a street that goes from Edinburgh Castle on top of the hill to Holyroodhouse at the bottom.
Just another great photo of the Royal Mile.
Edinburgh Castle is a must-see. It has one of the oldest chapels in Scotland, lovely state rooms and even a dungeon. I liked the dungeon.
Holyroodhouse is the official residences of the British Monarch in Scotland. Located at the bottom of the Royal Mile (Edinburgh Castle is at the other end), Holyroodhouse has been around since the 16th century and many rooms are open to the public.
To the rear of Holyroodhouse is the ruins of Holyrood Abbey and Gardens. Holyrood Abbey was founded in the 15th century, but the Scottish Reformation doomed the church’s fate. It had stopped being used as a parish church in the 18th century. The locals preferred not to have to go to church within the city walls, choosing Canongate Kirk nearby instead.
Another must-see is the Greyfriar’s Kirkyard. J.K. Rowling wrote part of Harry Potter in a building across the street and used some of the names from the tombs as inspiration. A favorite stop on Harry Potter tours of the city.
I absolutely loved this cemetery even though it was a muddy mess.
Behind Edinburgh Castles are two neat churches. St. John is just so light an airy with all its stained glass windows. A big contrast to St. Giles.
One must also wander to New Town built between 1767 and 1860. It was a planned community with lovely townhouses.
Even in New Town, however, you can still find older fashioned stone homes and buildings like this one.
And finally, a must not miss Deans Village. Just so picturesque.
I can’t forget to include this guy:
View this post on Instagram
Edinburgh, Scotland is an amazing city with history around every corner. From the genteel New Town to the vaults of famous body snatchers, Edinburgh will not disappoint a good nerd.
Check out Day 11 where I visit the area around Scotland’s Firth of Forth!
or
Start at the beginning of my 30 days around Great Britain!
