Explore one of Sicily’s most famous and oldest cities.
Syracuse, Sicily, was one of the biggest players in Sicilian history. Well, that’s because it’s been continuously inhabited for over 2,700 years.
Syracuse (Siracusa in Italian) was founded by Ancient Greek colonialists from Corinth in 734 BCE and the Greeks left their mark, building one of the most powerful cities in the Mediterranean. We can still see the ruins of their temples and a theater in Syracuse today. Greek was even spoken as lingua franca in these parts until after the Arabs and Normans showed up in the Middle Ages.
The city of Syracuse is divided into two parts, the mainland and the island of Ortigia, where the city was founded. During ancient times, the city exploded off the island and it’s in the mainland where you find the ruins of the theater and amphitheater today. However, during the medieval period, the city shrunk back onto Ortigia, a more defensible position and it is where most of the attractions of the city are located. So it is on Ortigia where we will start.
One of the first things you see when entering Ortigia, is the Temple of Apollo, from the 6th century BCE. Not much remains today. (Check out Turkey’s Temple of Apollo.)
Up the street from the Temple of Apollo is a maze of narrow streets like this one. Adorable.
Streets I wish had more time to wander.
Coastal views.
Looking back towards the mainland.
Saw a building with a bunch of cat art on it like this. This is my favorite. It is a take on the symbol of Sicily, which is weirdly three legs going around a face.
The church of Spirito Santo.
Another cute little street.
One of the top attractions of Ortigia is Maniace Castle (Castello Maniace), a 13th century fortification built at the very tip of the island. It was later used as a prison and redesigned for guns and cannons. It fell into disuse but has recently been restored.
Maniace Castle lies on the sea on the tip of Ortigia.
The impressive gate of Maniace Castle. There used to be a drawbridge here over a moat but that has been since filled in and a permanent bridge built.
The fortress of Maniace Castle.
The interior of Maniace Castle has changed a lot. The current appearance dates from the recent reconstruction. The inner court would have been much smaller during its medieval days. The original rooms are outlined on the ground.
Beautiful stonework and fireplace.
The reconstructed medieval hall. The dark brick is what has been replaced in the last decade. The local community has put a lot of work into preserving this castle.
Behind the castle, is the newer fortifications, a battlement constructed for cannons and guns.
Gun hole, or is it a cannon hole?
Now leaving the castle to explore more of the city. I love this little piazza.
The Duomo of Syracuse is located on this gorgeous piazza, the aptly named Piazza del Duomo.
The piazza is surrounded by gorgeous Baroque buildings, like Santa Lucia.
And this lovely building.
Next to the Duomo is the amazing building, the town hall of Syracuse.
The Duomo, or Cathedral, of Syracuse started its long life as the Temple of Athena in the 5th century BCE. The conversion to Christian church seemed to have happened in the 7th century CE. The Doric columns of the original Greek temple were incorporated in place into the “new” church. This church was then converted into a mosque in 878 during the Arab conquests and then a church again in 1058. The roof of the nave and the mosaics were placed during the Norman years. Much of the exterior of the church was rebuilt after the Great Sicilian Earthquake of 1693 (the same one that leveled Noto).
The very Baroque front of the very old Duomo of Syracuse.
The very plain nave of the Duomo of Syracuse. The ceiling dates from the early medieval period. The altar was redone during the Baroque period. I love the simplicity of the church.
Here you can see the columns of the Temple of Athena on the left.
Now we continue on to the mainland. It’s a far walk to the rest of the archaeological ruins of Syracuse but it’s worth it. Officially called the Parco Archaeologico della Neapolis. (It has a horrible website.)
Pit stop at the Fountain of Diana before leaving the island of Ortigia.
The park contains the ruins of an Ancient Roman amphitheater, a giant altar, a theater and the Ear of Dionysius (I’ll explain that one later.) Let’s start with the amphitheater.
While it isn’t the Colosseum, the amphitheater is pretty neat because it wasn’t all built. What we see today was all carved out of the rock. The brick structures that created more seating near the top no longer remains. The pit in the center would have been covered, allowing for animals and people to pop out during shows, just like at the Colosseum. The spectators would still have had a good show.
A little weedkiller could help a bit, but you can still see the outline of the amphitheater. It was a decent size.
The Altar of Hieron doesn’t look like much today but it is the largest altar known from antiquity. I at first thought it was actually a base of a temple. It is that big! Unfortunately, only the base of the altar survives today.
The base of the Altar of Hieron. The overgrown vegetation really hides the size of this thing. It’s huge. It barely fit in the picture.
The Greek Theater of Syracuse was first constructed in the 5th century BCE, renovated in the 3rd century BCE and during the Roman era. It was mostly carved out of the side of the Temenite Hill, and it is huge.
The Greek Theater of Syracuse is also immense. One of the largest I have ever seen (It may be the largest but I’m not 100% sure. I saw a lot in Turkey.). I’m standing near where the stage would have been. However, the stone from the stage was basically robbed out, as well as the stone from the constructed portions at the top of the seating portion of the theater.
To get to the top, you actually have to go around the side and climb up some stairs. Up here there is a fountain fed by an aqueduct and this fantastic view. I’m not sure what that weird little building was used for.
The Ear of Dionysus is a very odd cave in the Temenite Hill that sort of looks like the inside of an ear, according to the painter Caravaggio. I honestly think it looks more like the inverse of a nose. It has a weird echo effect and is very creepy if you are the only one in there. It’s actually man made, carved in Greek/Roman times for water delivery, which is why it is so smooth today.
The very weird Ear of Dionysus. I think it looks like someone stuck their nose in some plaster of Paris or something.
When I entered, there was a couple of people in here and then they left me alone. It was really weird. Don’t go in this place alone. It’s really dark and creepy. I don’t have very good night vision, so I ended up having to using my phone as a flashlight.
Syracuse is another town I wish I had just a little more time for. I wasn’t able to get to the archaeological museum and I wish I had more time to wander around Ortigia. I guess I will have to go back someday.
Check out my next update where I explore the amazing Roman villa at Piazza Armerina.
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