Explore a national park located right in the downtown of a city famous for its hot springs.
I’ll be honest with you. It was a very brief exploration of the “front country” of Hot Springs National Park, but it did give me a good introduction to the park. I started at Fort Smith (previous post) that morning and had six hours of driving to do that day. Cross country moves aren’t all that fun when you have to keep to a schedule.
Hot Springs, Arkansas, grew up next to what would become Hot Springs National Park, which was first preserved as Hot Springs Reservation in 1832. This was the first time the federal government set aside land for preservation, well before the idea of a national park existed. Hot springs were a big deal for early medicine. People flocked to soak in hot springs around the world, believing that they cured various illnesses. While the area was protected, it didn’t stop bathhouses and spas from behind built in Hot Springs, and an entire town, for that matter, to support an entire spa industry that still continues to this day.
Hot Springs National Park is unique in how close it is to a larger town. In fact, Bathhouse Row (named for its row of bathhouses, obviously) and part of downtown Hot Springs bisects a portion of the national park. I parked in a city parking garage and walked across a normal city street, in order to get to a trail. I felt like I was in a city park the entire time. There are other sections of the park that are more remote, of course, but I wasn’t able to visit those in the time I had.
View from the top of the parking garage. The giant building on top of the hill is the former Army and Navy Hospital. Soldiers and sailors that needed extra recuperation stayed there and even got some spa treatment. It is now the Arkansas Rehabilitation Center. The hill on the left is national park land, complete with observation tower.
Now for Bathhouse Row on Central Avenue. Buckstaff Bathhouse, built in 1912, is still an operating bathhouse.
Lamar Bathhouse, built in 1923, finished its bathhouse days in 1985. Today it serves as the park store.
Ozark Bathhouse‘s mission style may have something to do with the claim that Spanish explorer Hernando de Soto visited the hot springs here. Several other bathhouses also have Spanish influences in their decoration. Ozark closed the bathhouse business in 1957.
More Spanish influence in the Quapaw Bathhouse, built in 1922, and it reopened in 2007 after closing in 1984.
National Park Visitor Center, in the old Fordyce Bathhouse. It is apparently gorgeous on the inside, but it was closed due to Covid. There are usually tours, too. Stupid Covid.
Maurice Bathhouse, built 1911-12, in a very white, hygienic style. It was the first bathhouse in Hot Springs to treat various forms of paralysis, such as polio, and other severe muscle and joint issues. It was also the only one to regularly employ a physical therapist.
Hale Bathhouse, built in 1892-1893, to replace an earlier bathhouse. The first Hale Bathhouse was built all the way back in 1841, one of the first in Hot Springs. The bathhouse closed in 1978. Today, it is a luxury hotel with some spa options.
Superior Bathhouse, built in 1916, now operates as a brewery and a restaurant.
At the end of Bathhouse Row is the Arlington Hotel. I think it is quite impressive.
The Cascade, a lovely hot spring at the end of Bathhouse Row and across the street from the Arlington Hotel.
The Grand Promenade is parallel to Central Avenue up the hill behind Bathhouse Row. It’s a lovely brick paved path that ladies and gents would have walked on after their spa treatments.
I decided to do a bit of hiking. The loop I chose was a bit steeper than I thought it was going to be. Peak Trail and down Shortcut and Oertel Trails.
Oertel Trail heading down. The trails were steep and not all that exciting photo wise.
Display Spring. That’s the actual name for this spring. It was leaking a bit.
My visit was a very short one. I had to get back on the road and make it to Memphis at a reasonable time. Hot Springs has a great variety of activities that I wasn’t able to explore, plus a ton of trails. The trails tend to be on the steep side but right in town and easy to access.
Check out my next update where I find some waterfalls in Tennessee!
or
Check out more national parks and other public lands!
