Explore an Arkansas fort that once was on America’s frontier.
In 1817, the Arkansas River formed part of the American frontier. The Louisiana Purchase happened only four years prior, and the United States was moving westward. Explorers were gearing up and land speculators wanted more land to sell.
The First Fort Smith was built in 1817 along the Arkansas River in what would become Fort Smith, Arkansas, across the river from Oklahoma. Major William Bradford built his fort overlooking a strategic curve in the river during a time of unrest from the local Osage people. Cherokees from the Southeast, under pressure from eastern whites, were moving west, away from their traditional territories. It was the unfortunate start of the Trail of Tears. The first fort was abandoned in 1824 and was basically forgotten about.
National Park Service A map of the site, showing the First Fort and the Second Fort. Fort Smith, the town, grew up around the forts. Only the black buildings remain at the site.
Train tracks bisect the site.
Some of the park’s wildlife.
What remains of a corner of the First Fort Smith overlooking the Arkansas River.
Another corner of the First Fort, not much remains of this tiny stone/wooden fort.
More wildlife! Sorry, I like squirrels.
In 1838, a much larger Second Fort Smith was constructed near the ruins of the first and for very similar reasons. Tension among the local tribes grew, especially as the Trail of Tears, the forced removal of the Native Americans from their homeland to make room for European Americans, was ramped up. Future president Zachary Taylor commanded the fort during the 1840s while it supplied other forts further into Indian Territory (Oklahoma). Fort Smith was captured by Union troops in 1863. The fort continued to be a supply depot for other forts in the area until 1871 when it was closed down.
The modern entrance to the Second Fort Smith.
This recreation flagpole is almost 100 ft tall and could be seen for miles away. In order to build the original, two poles had to be attached together like a ship’s mast, which is why it looks like a ship’s mast. Someone was probably trying to impress someone else, or something.
The oldest and one of the few remaining buildings is the Commissary.
Food supplies for Fort Smith and other nearby forts were stored here. Passing soldiers heading further west could also stop in for a bite to eat.
The Commissary was later modified for use as a barracks and a hospital. After the fort was decommissioned, it served as a residence for court officials and judge’s chambers. More on that in a bit.
Really interesting building from the outside.
Can’t have a fort without a cannon.
After Fort Smith was decommissioned, Fort Smith’s barracks held the United States District Court for the Western District of Arkansas, which included all of Indian Territory. Sleeping quarters were turned into a court room and the mess halls in the basement were turned into a jail.
The barracks/jail/courthouse and now museum/visitor center/park store. I’m not sure how it’s all laid out on the inside. The building was closed due to Covid.
The jail was in the basement which still has bars on the windows, and I think the courthouse was in this part of the building based on the photos from the park website.
What’s a courthouse without some gallows nearby?
Okay?
Fort Smith National Historic Site was a quick stop on my cross-country trip to Maryland from Arizona. I would have loved to have the visitor center open as well, but stupid Covid hits again. The town of Fort Smith also looked pretty neat as well. If you find yourself in the area, you might as well stop by and find some local Arkansas history while you are there.
Check out my next update where I visit Hot Springs, Arkansas!
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Check out more national parks and other public lands!
