Explore a West Virginian town that time left behind.
Where the Potomac and the Shenandoah Rivers meet is a town known for one thing, for being adorably historic. Harpers Ferry lost its major employer after the Civil War tore the town part. One of the largest weapons producers in the country was here but there was a problem, all the machinery was now gone, taken south. How were they to make money? Well, tourism of course.
With Civil War, Abolitionist, early industrial (interchangeable parts were perfected here), and early American history and just being in a pretty area with lovely trails, Harpers Ferry is a gem, especially once the National Park Service spruced up the damaged Lower Town.
Today, a visitor can stroll Lower Town, the flood plain and part of the Harpers Ferry National Historic Park and Upper Town, which includes shops and restaurants and a few more exhibits. Many of the exhibits were still open even with Covid restrictions, but anything that required a tour or a person to watch you was closed. I still was able to spend most of the day there. I would have hiked some of the trails had there not been fresh slippery snow. I barely made it to the top of the hill without dying.
The restored Shenandoah Street, the main drag of Lower Town.
From the other end of the street.
The railroad, on elevated tracks, went through right next to buildings in Lower Town along the river. This section is no longer used. The tracks being used are now on the opposite side of town.
Looking up at Upper Town and St. Peter’s Catholic Church.
Let’s take a closer look at the Dry Good’s Store and the Provost Marshall’s Office.
Normally this would be staffed with a ranger or volunteer but winter or Covid strikes again. I laughed when I saw this exhibit though. It was used in a training video for interpretation that was produced by the Harpers Ferry Center.
The Provost Marshall’s Office, he ran the military and civilian life in Harpers Ferry during the Civil War. He could jail, punish, and execute offenders that did not obey his orders.
This classy building is used for the park’s history exhibit. Highly recommend stopping in this one.
The Stephenson’s Hotel.
Let’s head to Upper Town!
Heading up the historic High Street.
The very steep and narrow Church Street runs up the hill parallel to High Street. This town was designed for wagons, not cars. The entrances to these buildings are on the other side of the buildings.
While the Lower Town had to be restored after the Civil War and multiple floods, many of these buildings are original.
I love all the stone buildings in Harpers Ferry.
Overlooking High Street from Church Street. High Street is where you would find eateries and some shops.
The street entrances to some of the buildings that overlook High Street a few photos ago.
The Harper House, built by the town founder, Robert Harper. Built in 1782, it is the oldest structure in Harpers Ferry.
Further up the hill and prominently located over Lower Town is St. Peter’s Roman Catholic Church.
Even further up the hill are the ruins of St. John’s Episcopal Church. It served as a barracks and a hospital during the Civil War and was eventually abandoned in 1895.
As I head further up the hill in the snow (without traction, not a good idea on my part), I found Jefferson Rock. Thomas Jefferson stood up there on October 25, 1783, and said some very poetic words about the beauty of this area.
I agree, it is pretty. Although, He wouldn’t have seen the church or bridge during his visit.
At the top of the hill, is Harper Cemetery. Of course, I found a cemetery.
It was so pretty in the snow.
Back down to Lower Town and to the historic John Brown’s Fort.
What we now call John Brown’s Fort was originally built in 1848 as the Harpers Ferry Armory’s Fire Engine and Guard House. John Brown led an unsuccessful revolt against slavery in 1859, that culminated in the Fire Engine House. Brown and his associates went to get weapons from Harpers Ferry large weapons factory (armory) in order to arm escaped slaves and was surrounded and he held up in the fort until he was captured. He was eventually executed for his revolt. However, his revolt spawned further abolitionist movement through the United States. Eventually, African American tourists, who often stayed at Storer College in town, came to Harpers Ferry to see the place where John Brown fought for their freedom. It’s amazing the building survives today since it was dissembled and/or moved four times; first to Chicago for an unsuccessful showing at the world’s fair, back to a farm field outside of Harpers Ferry, back into town to the Storer Campus on top of the hill, and then to the current location by the National Park Service in the 1960s. They couldn’t move it back to the original location because there are now train tracks there.
Original location of John Brown’s Fort versus the current location. Fairly close.
Harpers Ferry has a few ruins still laying around, including bridge piers with trees growing out of them.
Where the Shenandoah River meets the Potomac River at Harpers Ferry.
Ruins of the 1850s multi-use Bollman Bridge, one of the few rail bridges over the Potomac River in the early to mid-19th century.
I did promise last post that there were two more posts featuring the C&O Canal. Across the Potomac River from Harpers Ferry is Lock 33 and its ruined lockhouse. The road goes between the lockhouse and the lock. Tight fit.
Harpers Ferry is a great place to visit, although it can be quite crowded at times, even in the winter. I got there early on a weekend morning before the people driving in from further away got in. There is a parking fee. If you don’t have a National Park Pass, park in the main lot at the Visitor Center and take the free bus. If you have a pass like I do, you can park at the train station but get there early. I got the last parking spot. They watch the parking lots.
There were places in Harpers Ferry I wasn’t able to visit due to Covid or winter closures. I never made it to Murphy Farm, which is by the visitor center, or any of the Civil War sites. You can easily spend all day at Harpers Ferry. I do advise to pack a lunch as there isn’t many eateries in town, especially in the winter. So, they can get a bit crowded and expensive.
Check out my next update where I explore the Great Falls of the Potomac!
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Check out more national parks and other public lands!
