Explorations of a Northern Spanish city, famous for its UNESCO World Heritage cathedral.
Burgos was the northern most city that I visited in Spain. My trip was planned around visiting significant sites in each location. I usually only choose two or three things to see and if I saw more, it was a bonus. I was drawn to Burgos, just for its cathedral. That was my goal. I accomplished that goal and much more.
Burgos was founded back in the 9th century as a Christian outpost during the Reconquista, the recapturing of Spain by the Christians from the Moors. The area had been previously settled by the Celts and the Romans but had been mostly abandoned by the time of the Muslim invasion in the 8th century. Burgos became part of the county of Castile, then part of the Kingdom of Leon., and later, the Kingdom of Castile. Castile will eventually take over most of Spain. (Don’t worry. I even think Spanish history is confusing.) El Cid and his wife are now buried in the Cathedral of Burgos. I walked right past their tomb without even realizing.
One of Spain’s most cherished national treasures, El Cid, was raised in Burgos. He was a minor noble who fought both the Christians and the Muslims and even was a mercenary for the Muslim rulers of Zaragoza. He basically played whatever side to his advantage.
Now back to Burgos. I had planned only to spend the morning/early afternoon in town. I wandered around a bit, checked out a museum, the cathedral and a monastery. It was a morning well spent.
I went for an evening stroll while waiting for dinnertime (which is stupidly late in Spain) after arriving to Burgos. Many Spanish cities have their city centers decorated up with lights for the holidays.
The Plaza Mayor was really done up for the holidays.
I started the next morning at San Nicolas de Bari, a church turned church museum.
I’m not sure what this room was originally, but it was turned into a perfect exhibit space.
I love when faces and animals show up randomly on buildings.
The church itself is gorgeous and used to show off some fancy retablos, the large artwork that sits above a Spanish altar.
A really fancy double tomb.
The balcony and pulpit are super fancy. The carvings are just so ornate.
The Cathedral of Burgos is a bit of French Gothic architecture in Spain (think Notre Dame). Begun in 1221, major embellishments were still added up to the 16th century. The Cathedral of Burgos is the only cathedral in Spain that has its own solo UNESCO World Heritage listing. Other cathedrals have to share their spotlight with other buildings. The photos below will tell you why this cathedral stands out among the rest.
The Cathedral of Burgos was built right next to a hill. We will see the other side of this door later.
Interesting. Not sure what’s going on here.
More of the super ornate cathedral.
Just gorgeous.
The Cathedral of Burgos. Just look at that spire!
A very fancy side entrance.
Now heading inside. (The weird layout of Spanish cathedrals is explained in my post on Segovia.) That altar is just fantastic.
Seriously, one of the most gorgeous cathedrals I have ever been in. The center tower is not only capped by windows, but also carved all the way up.
The choir is also absolutely stunning.
Choir fangirling over here.
On the opposite side of the choir, is this fancy thing I have yet to find an actual name for.
The entire choir is encased in fancy.
An interesting chapel, maybe called the Chapel of Reception?
An altar found in a chapel that’s fit for the main cathedral altar.
Remember when I said that we would be seeing a certain door again. Well, there it is. I wasn’t kidding when I said that the cathedral was built on the side of a hill.
Back near the altar. That tower is even more beautiful from the side.
3D carved figurines anyone?
Behind the altar, there is a series of super ornate reliefs. They were recently cleaned, and posters were displayed showing what the restoration work accomplished.
The Chapel of the Constables is in the very far back of the cathedral.
The fancy tomb of Constable Pedro Fernandez de Velasco and his wife, Mencia de Mendoza. Not sure what they did, but they got a fancy tomb out of the deal.
And finally, the absolutely gorgeous ceiling of the chapel.
The cathedral faces the Plaza Rey San Fernando, which has a lot of windows and a stone gate.
The other side of that stone gate is much fancier. The 14th century Arco de Santa Maria.
A building seen before in the Plaza Mayor.
An old pharmacy store front found in the Plaza Mayor.
Burgos is fairly colorful.
This is a fancy one.
A shopping district, perhaps?
A very fancy cultural center.
El Cid!
I know this post is getting long, but there is still more to see!
On the outskirts of Burgos is the 1400th century monastery, the Cartuja de Miraflores.
A royal hunting lodge was donated to the Carthusians for a new monastery about 3 km from the center of Burgos.
The chapel is divided into three sections. I’m standing right past a gated section.
This is the final resting place of King John II of Castile and his wife, Queen Isabella of Portugal, the parents of Queen Isabella I, the Catholic Monarch (a.k.a. the Queen Isabella that financed the first Colombian voyage). That’s their giant sepulcher in front of the altar there.
A relief of Isabella I praying? Maybe? It kind of looks like her.
Last stop, I promise. Near the ruined Castle of Burgos an amazing viewpoint of the city of Burgos and its cathedral.
Burgos had much more than I expected. I went for the wonderful cathedral and found a cute city with lots to offer. Because it was a Sunday, I was restricted a bit on which I could see. Burgos also boasts two great museums and a bunch of gorgeous churches to visit as well. There is even a giant park that goes high above the city, with castle ruins on the top of the hill. It was a great visit.
Check out my next update where I visit the bustling city of Valladolid!
or
Start at the beginning of my travels around Spain!
