Wandering Utrecht

Explorations of a city with canals, brick buildings and a very tall bell tower. 

Located in central the Netherlands, Utrecht is the 4th largest in the country. It was once the most prominent city until the Dutch Golden Age (16th-17th century) when Amsterdam bypassed it. Utrecht is also where the Dutch Republic (1579-1795), the predecessor state to the Netherlands, was founded. Lots of history here. Also lots of adorable old buildings.

Huis Zoudenbalch. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

Starting off strong with the 15th/19th century Huis Zoudenbalch.

Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

Sooooo cute.

Domtoren. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

Utrecht’s most prominent landmark, 14th century Domtoren (Dom Tower), the tallest church tower in the Netherlands. We will be returning here later.

The Oudegracht. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

The Oudegracht (old canal) runs through the center of Utrecht. The main channel of the River Rhine used to flow through here, but it had silted up in the Middle Ages. The main channel moved west, leaving only a small branch flowing through the Utrecht, which was then canaled.

The Oudegracht. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

The sides of the canal were raised up, leaving wharves and cellars at the water level.

The Oudegracht. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

The Dom Tower really dominates the skyline.

De Inkpot. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

Moving on to the outer ring canal that used to be part of the city’s fortifications. De Inktpot (the Inkpot) is the largest brick building in the Netherlands and for some reason it has a UFO.

Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

Cute little neighborhoods in this area.

Zeven Steegjes. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

Zeven Steegjes (Seven Alleys) (19th century) was a complex of small homes built for the city’s poor. There are quite a few similar complexes across the historic center.

reused church. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

A former church converted into apartments. Good reuse.

Nicolaïkerk. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

Nicolaïkerk. I just really like the top of the tower.

Lange Nieuwstraat. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

Lange Nieuwstraat (Long New Street).

Beyerskameren. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

On the left of the photo above is the Beyerskameren. A series of townhomes were built around 1600 to provide shelter for poor people and it still has low rents. The fancy doorway was the residence of the person that governed the complex.

Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

A very Dutch view.

Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

Very narrow.

The Paushuize. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

The Paushuize was constructed for Adrianus of Utrecht in 1517. However, he never was able to reside in his new house because he was elected Pope Adrian VI.

Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

No idea what this building is but its cool.

Domtoren. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

Back to the Dom Tower. It used to be connected to the cathedral, but part of the cathedral collapsed during a storm and was never rebuilt. (Drawing of what it used to look like.)

dom. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

What’s left of the Domkerk. The hole in the nave was just bricked up. It was the largest church in the Netherlands until the nave collapsed.

dom. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

It is a very Gothic church. The door on the left leads to the cloisters.

cloister. dom. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

It’s very fancy.

dom. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

The entrance to the cloister from plaza in front of the cathedral is much fancier.

Utrecht University Hall. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

Utrecht University Hall. No school that I went to was this fancy, but I did go to university that was built using part of an old insane asylum. Pretty fitting actually.

dom. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

They put an organ where the church collapsed. Explains why there aren’t any windows there.

dom. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

The high ceilings look a bit off in such a small church. Instead of an altar in the apse, there’s a tomb. Not the first time I’ve seen this in Gothic churches converted to Protestant use.

tomb of Willem Joseph baron van Ghent tot Drakenburgh, dom. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

Probably the most ornate thing in this church. This is the tomb of Willem Joseph baron van Ghent tot Drakenburgh, a Dutch admiral from the 17th century.

Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

A former Catholic ornamental screen that sat behind an altar. It was damaged in the reformation in 1580.

Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

This is definitely a Gothic church because I don’t know what’s going on here.

The Oudegracht. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

Medieval tower thing along the canal.

The Oudegracht. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

Ended up in the area where I started.

St. Catharinakathedraal. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

St. Catharinakathedraal. The former convent next door is now a museum.

St. Catharinakathedraal. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

Pretty standard Gothic.

St. Catharinakathedraal. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

So there’s always something weird like this. Monkeys?

St. Willibrordkerk. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

Last stop was the neo-Gothic St. Willibrordkerk. Churches were often a bit extra in the 19th century.

St. Willibrordkerk. Utrecht, the NetherlandsWandering Jana

I love a good neo-Gothic building.

 

Utrecht is not on the Netherlands main tourist track, but that actually makes it more special. The city has plenty to see and do, lots of museums and lots of adorable streets to wander.

 

Check out my next update where I endure Carnival in Maastricht!

or

Start at the beginning of this European adventure!


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Traveling the world to discover the past.
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