This mostly forgotten city was one of Ancient Rome’s finest treasures.
Located on the outskirts of modern Seville, Spain (Roman Hispalis), Italica was Rome’s first settlement in Spain and its first city outside of Italy. Italica was founded 206 BCE during the Second Carthaginian War as a settlement for veterans of the war. The Romans didn’t care that the Turdetani, a local tribe, already had a settlement there since the 4th century BCE at least.
New settlers joined the veterans and their families and Italica grew to a fairly large city. Emperors Trajan (emperor between 98-117) and Hadrian (emperor between 117-138) were definitely born here and maybe even Theodosius (emperor between 379-395). The experts aren’t quite sure. Hadrian really put in the effort to better his hometown. Italica is divided into Old Town and New Town. Hadrian was born in Old Town (Vetus Urbs), and he expanded the city, creating the New Town (Nova Urbs). He also built temples and restored other public buildings. While Old Town is current under the town of Santiponce today, the ruins of New Town can be explored. There are a couple of ruins above ground in the Old Town including the town theater. However, the gate of the overlook that allows you to see the theater without going inside was closed for some reason.
In the third century, the Guadalquivir River shifted away from Italica, leaving the port high and dry. Trade and commerce shifted to Hispalis (ancient Seville) and so did most of the people. Luckily for us, only the Old Town was built over, leaving some decent ruins where Hadrian’s New Town once stood.
It was raining pretty hard during my entire visit, which may be evident in the photos below. So glad I brought my raincoat on this trip.
The first ruin you come across is the amphitheater. It was built outside of the city walls during the time of Hadrian’s improvements of Italica. One of the biggest amphitheaters in the Roman Empire, it could fit up to 25,000 spectators.
The entrance may still be in ruins but it’s still impressive.
A couple of votive plaques are near the entrance dedicated to the goddess Nemesis.
Scholars think that this room was a sanctuary dedicated to the goddess Dea Caelestius.
I got sidetracked and ended up in a passage. It was great to get out of the rain for a few minutes.
Pretty big arena.
The fossa bestiaria is where the Romans kept animals and gladiators so they could magically spring up in the middle of the action.
Quite a bit still survives.
So many passages.
And hidden rooms.
Passage to nowhere.
What remains of the city gates.
The main road through the New Town.
Not much of the town still remains standing.
Under the main road is the still functioning sewer system.
A collective latrine complete with fancy mosaic.
Ruins of a large home.
A little bit of wall plaster poking out.
The House of the Hylas, named for the center of this mosaic that now is in Seville.
The street heading to Santiponce, which is now above the ruins of Old Town.
Gorgeous mosaics in the House of the Birds.
This house was full of mosaics.
Another fancy one.
Gorgeous!
Would have been a really nice house, a big house at 1,700 sq meters (5,600 sq ft).
The mosaic that gives the house its name. It has 33 different bird species on it.
One of the birds.
So many cool birds.
Different house more awesome mosaics.
This one is awesome.
A bakery!
Cool oven.
Another awesome mosaic from the House of the Planetarium.
Giant mosaic from the same house.
While not the most impressive Ancient Roman ruins, Italica was fun to explore even in the rain. I was really impressed with all the mosaics that seem to pop up everywhere. Only a small section of the ancient city has been excavated, I wonder what they will find next.
Check out my next update where I venture to the southern Spanish coast!
or
Start at the beginning of my travels around Spain!
