Italia: Wandering Ostia Antica

Explorations of the ruins of Rome’s ancient port!

Ostia Antica (Ancient Ostia) is located at the mouth of the Tiber River, downriver from Rome. Because of silting and blowing sand, the ancient city now sits about 2 miles (3 km) from the Mediterranean Sea. The buildings and ruins of Ostia Antica were preserved because the city was abandoned after Rome declined. The harbor was no longer maintained and people left the area. Sand dunes would eventually cover many of the buildings.

The entrance to Ostia Antica is lined with tombs, in traditional Roman fashion. Romans did not like people to be buried within the city walls, so roads leading to and out of the city were often lined with tombs.

columbarium. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

There were a few large columbaria along the road. The niches would hold urns filled with cremated remains.

Decumano Massimo, Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

The Decumano Massimo, the main road through the city.

well on the Decumano Massimo, Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

A well was put right in the middle of the main road after the city started declining.

Insula del Soffitto dipinto. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

Insula del Soffitto dipinto. Once you get down the road a bit, the buildings become a bit taller. Insulae were a multi-use building often with shops and wealthy homes on the bottom floors and apartments higher up.

theater. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

The theater. There has been some restoration work on this building.

theater. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

A bit of restoration on the inside as well.

republican temples. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

I believe this is one of the Republican temples, the oldest in the city.

The Fullonica su Via degli Austustali. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

The Fullonica su Via degli Austustali. A fullonica (fullery-basically an ancient laundry service) was opened inside of a converted house in the 2nd century CE.

marble floor. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

A fancy marble floor. I visited in February, so much of the awesome mosaics were still covered to protect them from the frost.

street and insulae. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

The buildings in this area are the best preserved.

street and insulae. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

It was because of these buildings that we know what Ancient Roman insulae looked like. Rome was full of buildings like the one of the right.

Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

One of the taller buildings had an observation deck. Great views of the ruins from up here.

Thermopolium di Via di Diana. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

The Thermopolium di Via di Diana was an inn with a fancy wine bar. Food would also have been served.

arch. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

Someone tried to close off a large archway with some success.

empty windows. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

I don’t know how this survived.

Capitolium. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

The city’s main temple was dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. This building, called the Capitolium, was constructed in about 120 CE. It was built over the spot of another earlier temple, which was also built on an even earlier temple.

Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

There was once many buildings clad with fancy marble. Not much of it remains anymore.

forum baths. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

The Forum Baths, or what remains of it. There would have been marble everywhere in this building, along with a heating system.

atrium. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

The atrium of a complex that sold luxury goods. There is a really neat shrine on the left side.

insula with balcony. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

It’s remarkable that the balcony is still there.

brick entrance. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

A fancy entrance for a multi-use insulae with a commercial business attached, possibly a warehouse.

Domus di Amore e Psiche. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

Domus di Amore e Psiche, an aristocratic residence from the 4th century. The smaller columns were part of the decoration of an open air garden.

mosaic floor. Domus di Amore e Psiche. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

This house had some fancy mosaic floors as well.

marble room. Domus di Amore e Psiche. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

Opposite the garden is a room clad with marble.

mosaic. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

A mosaic that represents the mensores, the men that measured the grain, or something like that.

 mosaic floor. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

Portico mosaic of the Caseggiato(an apartment block in Italian) di Bacco e Arianna, a complex of rooms with many mosaics.

Caseggiato del Serapide. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

The giant Caseggiato del Serapide, one of the city’s largest building complexes.

Caseggiato del Serapide. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

It had a large courtyard and was at least two stories with apartments.

Caseggiato del Serapide. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

Giant entrance with a shrine on the right.

Caseggiato del Serapide. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

Two story portico around one of the courtyards.

Caseggiato del Serapide. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

Stairs no longer going anywhere.

Terme dei Sette Sapienti. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

A large, domed room part of the Terme dei Sette Sapienti, the same complex from above. Ostia had many private and public baths.

Terme dei Sette Sapienti. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

One of the plunge pools from the baths. I think the frescoes survived because the ceiling mostly survived. Pretty incredible.

Caseggiato del Serapide. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

I may have gotten a bit turned around in this giant complex.

Caseggiato del Serapide. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

It really isn’t had to get lost with all these interconnected hallways and rooms.

Caseggiato del Serapide. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

This complex may have been my favorite.

Garden Houses. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

Nearby is another giant complex, now called the Garden Houses. Not as confusing as the previous one.

Fontana con Lucerna. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

The Fontana con Lucerna took a form of a basin decorated with a screen and completely covered in marble. Very fancy.

Ninfeo degli Eroti. Ostia Antica, Rome, ItalyJana Irving

And lastly, the Ninfeo degli Eroti, a nymphaeum (a shrine to nymphs) built in the 4th century. It was a marble covered room with a large fountain in the middle.

 

This is just a small bit of what I saw at Ostia Antica. It’s a very large city, much of which is excavated. It doesn’t have the frescoes of Herculaneum or Pompeii, but it gives a great idea of how the streets of Rome would have looked.

Ostia Antica is easily reachable by commuter train from Central Rome. Only a short walk from the train station (aptly named “Ostia Antica”) is required to reach the site. Nearby, there are a few other remote sites that are a bit harder to reach. However, just a short walk from the entrance to Ostia Antica takes you to a castle, which is included on the same ticket.

 

Check out my next update where I explore the very hilly Ragusa! 

or

Start at the beginning of this adventure. 

 

About Wandering Jana

Traveling the world to discover the past.
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