Explorations of a Southeastern Sicilian city perched on top of two hills.
Ragusa is located in southeastern Sicily. It’s very easy to reach by train from Syracuse, along with other nearby cities that deserve their own visit, such as Noto and Modica. Well, except on Sunday because the local trains don’t run, which is why I only made it to Ragusa this time around. After visiting Syracuse, I headed to Ragusa.
Ragusa is really two cities in one, Ragusa Superiore and Ragusa Ibla. The former was the first city. It was devastated by an earthquake in 1693, requiring most of the city to be rebuilt. After the earthquake, many people left Ragusa Ibla and formed what will later be called Ragusa Superiore (Upper Ragusa). These two independent cities would be joined to form a large provincial capital in 1927.
How Ragusa is laid out is a bit different from many old Italian cities. Normally, the historic center or oldest part of the city is up on a hill, with a more “modern” city down in the valleys. Ragusa is the opposite. The more “modern” city (i.e. 1700s onwards) is much higher than the old city and there is a deep valley between the two. I climbed a lot of stairs in two days.
The train station is in an even more modern area of Ragusa. A deep valley splits the it in two and then you have to climb up to Ragusa Superiore. I was not expecting that hill.
Wandering Jana A road heading to Ragusa Superiore.
Wandering Jana In the upper city, the details on the buildings are in this Baroque style.
Wandering Jana Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista. Ragusa’s first cathedral is in the lower city. When the upper town was built, a new cathedral was added. In Italian fashion, both buildings are referred to as cathedrals or duomos, even the one that isn’t technically a cathedral anymore. This one is peak Sicilian Baroque.
Wandering Jana I stayed on the edge of Ragusa Superiore, where there’s a fairly big drop towards Ragusa Ibla. The city becomes a little terraced in this area.
Wandering Jana It was uphill all the way to the Cathedral in all directions. I took my backpack to the room I rented and then went back up again for food. Sicilian fast food is the best.
On my second day, I headed down to Ragusa Ibla. It was a rainy morning, not clearing up until later in the afternoon.
Wandering Jana It’s a ways down there.
Wandering Jana You can either go down by endless stairs or a winding road.
Wandering Jana The cathedral of Ragusa Ibla is also uphill from almost every direction.
Wandering Jana Still going down.
Wandering Jana Finally at the bottom. Santissime Anime del Purgatorio.
Wandering Jana Looking back at Ragusa Superiore.
Wandering Jana One of the few roads that you can actually drive a car on.
Wandering Jana It’s a bit hilly.
Wandering Jana Many of the “streets” in hilly historic centers in Italy are actually just stairs.
Wandering Jana These buildings are built into a cliff, either at natural caves or excavated rooms.
Wandering Jana Heading up again.
Wandering Jana Adorable.
Wandering Jana One of the main plaza/street areas of Ragusa Ibla.
Wandering Jana A former church turned auditorium. Love the roof on the former bell tower.
Wandering Jana Portale di San Giorgio, one of the old city gates.
Wandering Jana San Giuseppe, very Baroque church.
Wandering Jana Oval churches are super hard to photograph.
Wandering Jana Fontana di Piazza Duomo. It can’t be a Baroque city without a fancy fountain.
Wandering Jana Piazza Duomo is the largest open space in Ragusa Ibla, except for a park.
Wandering Jana I love when roads are built over.
Wandering Jana Duomo di San Giorgio, finished in 1775, the reconstructed former cathedral.
Wandering Jana Rainy days mean dark churches.
Wandering Jana he cathedral had some really pretty chapels.
Wandering Jana A potted plant garden.
Wandering Jana The dome of the Duomo on the other side.
Wandering Jana Spending time in this park would have been much more nicer without the pouring rain.
Wandering Jana Heading back to Ragusa Superiore. It’s a bit of a climb.
Wandering Jana That balcony is awesome.
Wandering Jana Both Ragusa’s are surrounded by deep valleys. The railroad goes across that little stone bridge at the bottom, before going underground again.
Wandering Jana All the way down. Street grids became popular again during the Baroque period.
Wandering Jana Chiesa Ecce Homo, my favorite church in Ragusa.
Wandering Jana I just love those blue accents.
Wandering Jana Very cute.
Wandering Jana Now to go into the Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista.
Wandering Jana It’s also very Baroque.
Wandering Jana The cathedral is pretty standard Baroque except for this frescoed chapel.
Ragusa is a great place to spend a weekend. The city can easily be a good place to go explore other Baroque cities in the area (as long as it isn’t Sunday). It’s usually a bit more lively, but it was February and rainy when I visited.
Check out my next update where I explore another Baroque city, Catania!
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Start at the beginning of this adventure.
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