Italia: Wandering Pavia

Explorations of a former capital city in Italy. 

Pavia is not even close to being one of the most famous cities in Italy, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t have an extremely lengthy and complicated history all the same. Located about 22 mi (33 km) south of Milan, Pavia was the capital city of various kingdoms, and communes. The city was also ruled by the Roman Empire, the Holy Roman Empire, various noblemen and so on. Even the basic history of Pavia is hard to grasp.

Founded by the Romans, Pavia would become a headquarters for the Ostrogoths after the fall of Rome, capital city of the Lombards and then the capital city of the Kingdom of Italy (part of the Holy Roman Empire) during the early Middle Ages. It was an independent commune for a while and then conquered by a noble family from Milan, the Visconti. And all this before 1400. Pavia would continue to be passed around until around 1859 when it became part of the Kingdom of Italy that would go on to control what we consider Italy today.

Walking around Pavia today, you can see the traces of this complex history in the city.

Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

It was a bit of a gloomy day.

market stall. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

Cheese, sausage and boar/pig heads?

Carabinieri station. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

A Carabinieri station in a former Augustine monastery.

San Pietro in Ciel d'Oro. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro (Saint Peter in Golden Sky), a Romanesque church (12th century) build over a Lombard church (7th century-ish).

San Pietro in Ciel d'Oro. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

The church is named for the golden mosaic in the apse.

Arca di Sant'Agostino. San Pietro in Ciel d'Oro. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

Under which is the 14th century Arca di Sant’Agostino, the final resting place of St. Augustine of Hippo.

Santa Maria del Carmine. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

Santa Maria del Carmine, a example of Gothic architecture in Lombardy. It was built by one of the Visconti.

Santa Maria del Carmine. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

Very Italian Gothic.

Santa Maria del Carmine. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

Some gorgeous chapels in this church.

cathedral. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

I could not get back far enough to get the entire very tall Cathedral in one photo. A tower that was connected to the church collapsed in 1989.

cathedral. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

Officially named Cattedrale di Santo Stefano e Santa Maria Assunta, the cathedral was built in the 15th century in the Renaissance style.

cathedral. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

The central dome is 318 ft (97 m) tall and is the fourth largest in Italy.

cathedral. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

The church seems cavernous.

cathedral. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

I don’t know who is buried here but that is one fancy tomb. It was probably a bishop.

Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

I just love the earthy colors the locals have chosen to paint everything.

tower house. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

Tower house!

mosaic. San Teodoro. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

San Teodoro is a typical Romanesque Northern Italian church. Typical until you find some hidden gems like this 12th century mosaic from early in the church’s life.

fresco. San Teodoro. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

There’s some 16th century frescos as well.

fresco. San Teodoro. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

Fresco featuring Pavia’s skyline.

gate. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

Part of the old city walls.

The Ponte Coperto. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

The Ponte Coperto (Covered Bridge) is a reconstruction based on the original 14th century bridge that was severely damaged in WWII.

The Ponte Coperto. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

Section of the original bridge next to the new one. The new bridge is a bit taller and a bit shorter than the original so it wasn’t an exact reconstruction. Had the bridge been reconstructed today and not in 1949, the original bridge, with repairs, might still be around.

The Ponte Coperto. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

It’s a bit dark inside.

River Ticino. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

The River Ticino.

tower house. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

Back across the river and I found another tower house.

San Michele Maggiore. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

Another grand church, San Michele Maggiore, from the 11-12 century.

San Michele Maggiore. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

The carvings around the doors are amazing.

San Michele Maggiore. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

Close up!

San Michele Maggiore. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

The carvings include inside.

San Michele Maggiore. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

All the capitals of the columns are carved as well.

San Michele Maggiore. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

More carvings near the entrance to the crypt.

Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

Very cute.

three towers. Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

The Three Towers of Pavia. When they were built in the 11-13th centuries, they were in a dense urban environment and not the open plaza they are in today.

university of Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

Walking through the courtyards of the University of Pavia.

Castello Visconteo di Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

Castello Visconteo di Pavia, the home of the Visconti family.

Castello Visconteo di Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

When it was constructed in the 14th century, the courtyard was completely surrounded by the immense building. After some battle damage in the 16th century, the building is now U-shaped.

Castello Visconteo di Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

This awesome building today hosts the local civic museum.

Castello Visconteo di Pavia, ItalyJana Irving

Some of the rooms still had some frescos.

 

I wasn’t sure at first if I was going to visit Pavia or not. I had a couple options for the day planned. Since the weather was poor in the Alps, I ended up in Pavia. Honestly, I’m so glad I did. It was a nice easy chill day wandering around the streets of Pavia. I also found some good pizza. Pavia was a great choice.

 

Check out my next update where I explore the city of Milan!

or

Start at the beginning of this adventure.

About Wandering Jana

Traveling the world to discover the past.
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