Explore the ancient and modern sides of Germany’s fourth largest city!
Cologne is famous for its cologne. Who knew? Cologne is the French and English name for the German city of Köln.
Cologne has a very, very long history. Founded by the Romans in 50 CE, Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensium was the capital of Germania Inferior. The name was later dropped to Colonia, and that is what probably eventually led to its modern name. Cologne is one of the few major Roman settlements to remain inhabited throughout the early medieval period. Cologne became a major trading hub, which continued into the modern period. The city was heavily bombed during WWII. 95% of the city center was destroyed or heavily damaged. The city center is very post-war modern with random historic buildings that had been restored.
My first stop is, of course, Cologne Cathedral. Construction started on the cathedral in 1248, but construction stopped around 1560 without finishing the church. The cathedral was finally finished in the 1880s based on the original medieval plans. (What it looked like in the 1820s.) It’s the third tallest church in the world, and the tallest twin spired church in the world. I ended up visiting the cathedral three times in the same day. It was mostly roped off when I first arrived, then slightly more opened the second time, and finally on the third, it was fully open. I’m combining all the visits together.
Jana Irving When exiting the main train station, you are greeted by the cathedral. The train station is ugly now, but it wasn’t always that way. The main building survived the war. But no, it was torn down because it had to modernized.
Jana Irving The spires that weren’t completed until the late 1800s.
Jana Irving That ugly building on the right is the Romano-Germanic Museum, which was closed for renovation. Why the 1970s thought that building looked wonderful next to the cathedral is beyond me.
Jana Irving The front of the church is insane.
Jana Irving The interior is stunning as well.
Jana Irving Such pretty.
Jana Irving A view of the entire nave from my second visit.
Jana Irving The area behind the apse was still closed on my second visit for some unknown reason. According to the sign, it should have been open. I ended up visiting three times.
Jana Irving Behind the apse are some really cool tombs, like this one of a knight.
Jana Irving Cologne was a big pilgrimage spot in the Middle Ages because of this shrine, Shrine of the Three Kings. It traditionally holds the bones of the three magi that visited Jesus after he was born.
Jana Irving The Chapel of the Magi was the original location of the reliquary.
Jana Irving This was my favorite tomb. It’s so castley.
Jana Irving The gargoyles are fantastic.
Jana Irving This is Cologne, a historic building sandwiched between post-war modern.
Jana Irving The city side of one of the old city gates, Eigelsteintorburg.
Jana Irving The exterior side. It’s pretty intimidating.
Jana Irving The very unique St. Maria Himmelfahrt.
Jana Irving There is a gate blocking off the church from the entrance. I would have loved to explore this one.
Jana Irving I love that they saved that facade, but they could have gone with something a little less Brutalist.
Jana Irving Historisches Zeughaus, looks a lot like something one would see in the Netherlands.
Jana Irving The old Ancient Roman wall. After the Roman period, the city expanded and new walls were built.
Jana Irving St. Gereon, one of the 12 Romanesque churches of Cologne.
Jana Irving This church is unique because a large part of it is Ancient Roman. Similar to the Cathedral of Trier, the central part of the church was built in the 4th century as part of a necropolis. The building may have been a mausoleum, but by the 6th century, it was definitely a church.
Jana Irving On the outside of the Roman core, you can see a bit of exposed Roman masonry. The building was covered with large conches along the exterior. They were “flattened” when the church was turned into an octagon around 1220.
Jana Irving The nave was added in the 8th century onwards.
Jana Irving The Upper floors were added in a Gothic style. It was originally only two levels, plus the dome.
Jana Irving What the Roman building looked like before additions.
Jana Irving Römerturm, an Ancient Roman tower with preserved mosaic decorations.
Jana Irving St. Pantaleon, another grand Romanesque church.
Jana Irving The very castle like Severinstorburg from the 12th century.
Jana Irving Fancy building from 1676.
Jana Irving Die Bottmühle, a former windmill and grain mill. The stone windmill is from the 17th century. Mill operations stopped in the 19th century.
Jana Irving A older style building that really stands out on the Heumarkt.
Jana Irving Another building that reminds me of the Netherlands.
Jana Irving A colorful area.
Jana Irving Another Romanesque church, Groß Sankt Martin (Great Saint Martin Church). That impressive tower dates from 1150-1250.
Jana Irving The interior really hasn’t changed much.
Jana Irving Alter Markt (Old Market) is modern, but at least its colorful.
Jana Irving The Tower of City Hall. There was construction in front of the full building so I couldn’t go see it.
Jana Irving The next day after exploring Brühl (next post), I found the last city gate that still survives, Hahnentor, from the 13th century.
Even though I had some very gloomy explorations of Cologne, I quite enjoyed it. I didn’t see any museums because the Roman-Germanic Museum is closed, except for a small exhibit somewhere else. Not all that I saw made it in the post. I saw even more churches, Roman remains and a cemetery. There’s quite a bit to do in Cologne.
Check out my next update where I explore a UNESCO site in Brühl!
or
Start at the beginning of this European adventure!
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