Wandering Lüneberg

Explorations of a well preserved city financed by salt. 

Lüneberg is located in northern Germany, a bit south if Hamburg. It’s a small city with some really adorable buildings in its historic center. No need to reconstruct anything. The bombs of WWII were mainly focused on the train station and factories on the edge of town. However, Lüneberg was in still in rough shape. Thankfully, the locals fought back against the plan to level the historic center and rebuild it with modern buildings. The city has been in active restoration since the 1970s.

Like many other cities in the area, Lüneberg was a member of the Hanseatic League, a medieval commercial and defensive network that dominated trade of the Baltic Sea. Hanseatic cities tended to be on the coast or with direct river access. Lüneberg, however, is located up a tributary that eventually meets the Elbe River, which runs through Hamburg into the North Sea. But Lüneberg had something everyone needed at the time, salt. Fishing was a big business in the medieval era and the only way to preserve the fish so it makes it to market is salt. Salt mine continued until 1980, but the salt trade waned in the 16th century. Less fish due to over fishing equals less need for salt. This left the historic center of Lüneberg with few renovations after 1600. Unfortunately, salt mining underneath the town has left issues with subsistence where the ground above is sinking.

The Ratsmühle. Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

The Ratsmühle, a former mill built in 1597. The water tower (brick tower on the right) was built about two decades earlier.

Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

That building might be a bit wonky.

Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

Very cute.

Kalandhaus, Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

Kalandhaus, which was restored around 1900.

Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

Heading towards Lüneberg biggest sight.

The Abtsmühle, Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

The Abtsmühle, a former warehouse or something near the river front. Judging by the name, an abbey used to have a mill here.

Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

A tower and gate going over one of the bridges of the harbor. I can’t find anything specifically on this tower.

Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

All I could make out from the white part on the previous picture is that it is possibly 17th century (even though that seems late for the style). Definitely restored in 1903-4.

Lübeck harbor, GermanyJana Irving

The harbor of Lüneberg.

Lübeck harbor, GermanyJana Irving

It’s full of restaurants and bars today.

Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

And quite a few adorable buildings.

Lübeck harbor, GermanyJana Irving

There’s that tower again.

Lübeck harbor, GermanyJana Irving

Very cute.

Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

The fish market used to be right here next to the river.

Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

Too much cute.

traditional crane. Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

There even is this crane thing.

Lübeck, Germany Jana Irving

Building from 1593. The rounded windows with the rippled brick seem to be a local style.

Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

Narrow streets.

Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

The top floors would have been used for storage.

Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

A very cute house on a very narrow road.

Rathaus. Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

The medieval town hall which a Baroque update. There aren’t many Baroque facades in town.

Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

A series of awesome buildings behind the town hall.

Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

Gorgeous building.

Das Schwangere Haus. Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

Das Schwangere Haus (the Pregnant House). I guess it’s a fitting name. I love that this is marked on Google Maps.

Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

Heading into a mainly residential area.

Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

Just so freaking adorable.

Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

I wasn’t the only one fawning over these two houses.

Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

This style is very similar to Neo-Gothic that was big in England in the 19th century. Although, not this house. It’s from 1516 (I love it when people put dates on their houses.)

Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

So much cute.

Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

Another over the top half-timbered house.

 St.-Michaelis-Kirche. Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

Found a church, St.-Michaelis-Kirche, once part of a monastery turned school.

 St.-Michaelis-Kirche. Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

Johann Sebastian Bach graduated from the St. Michael’s School.

 St.-Michaelis-Kirche. Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

The crypt. I love it.

Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

This town is too much cute.

Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

Shopping streets tend to have a mixture of very old, old and modern buildings. It’s amazing how many buildings survived.

Am Sande, Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

Am Sande, the main town square.

Am Sande, Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

Ooooo, I like this one.

Am Sande, Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

The top portion of this building is from 1553.

Am Sande, Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

Soooo many gables.

Die Alte Raths-Apotheke, Am Sande, Lübeck, GermanyJana Irving

Die Alte Raths-Apotheke, still an active pharmacy.

Lüneberg absolutely surprised me. It looked like a cute city to check out while I was in nearby Hamburg. I never expected it to be so well preserved. It’s a rarity in Germany to have a city of this size that wasn’t carpet bombed to oblivion. Not seen here is the Salt Museum, which is closed on Mondays, the day I visited.

 

Check out my next update where I explore Hamburg!

or

Start at the beginning of this European adventure!


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About Wandering Jana

Traveling the world to discover the past.
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