Wandering Lüneberg

Explorations of a well preserved city financed by salt. 

Lüneberg is located in northern Germany, a bit south if Hamburg. It’s a small city with some really adorable buildings in its historic center. No need to reconstruct anything. The bombs of WWII were mainly focused on the train station and factories on the edge of town. However, Lüneberg was in still in rough shape. Thankfully, the locals fought back against the plan to level the historic center and rebuild it with modern buildings. The city has been in active restoration since the 1970s.

Like many other cities in the area, Lüneberg was a member of the Hanseatic League, a medieval commercial and defensive network that dominated trade of the Baltic Sea. Hanseatic cities tended to be on the coast or with direct river access. Lüneberg, however, is located up a tributary that eventually meets the Elbe River, which runs through Hamburg into the North Sea. But Lüneberg had something everyone needed at the time, salt. Fishing was a big business in the medieval era and the only way to preserve the fish so it makes it to market is salt. Salt mine continued until 1980, but the salt trade waned in the 16th century. Less fish due to over fishing equals less need for salt. This left the historic center of Lüneberg with few renovations after 1600. Unfortunately, salt mining underneath the town has left issues with subsistence where the ground above is sinking.

The Ratsmühle. Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

The Ratsmühle, a former mill built in 1597. The water tower (brick tower on the right) was built about two decades earlier.

Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

That building might be a bit wonky.

Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

Very cute.

Kalandhaus, Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

Kalandhaus, which was restored around 1900.

Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

Heading towards Lüneberg biggest sight.

The Abtsmühle, Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

The Abtsmühle, a former warehouse or something near the river front. Judging by the name, an abbey used to have a mill here.

Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

A tower and gate going over one of the bridges of the harbor. I can’t find anything specifically on this tower.

Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

All I could make out from the white part on the previous picture is that it is possibly 17th century (even though that seems late for the style). Definitely restored in 1903-4.

Lübeck harbor, GermanyWandering Jana

The harbor of Lüneberg.

Lübeck harbor, GermanyWandering Jana

It’s full of restaurants and bars today.

Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

And quite a few adorable buildings.

Lübeck harbor, GermanyWandering Jana

There’s that tower again.

Lübeck harbor, GermanyWandering Jana

Very cute.

Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

The fish market used to be right here next to the river.

Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

Too much cute.

traditional crane. Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

There even is this crane thing.

Lübeck, Germany Wandering Jana

Building from 1593. The rounded windows with the rippled brick seem to be a local style.

Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

Narrow streets.

Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

The top floors would have been used for storage.

Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

A very cute house on a very narrow road.

Rathaus. Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

The medieval town hall which a Baroque update. There aren’t many Baroque facades in town.

Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

A series of awesome buildings behind the town hall.

Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

Gorgeous building.

Das Schwangere Haus. Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

Das Schwangere Haus (the Pregnant House). I guess it’s a fitting name. I love that this is marked on Google Maps.

Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

Heading into a mainly residential area.

Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

Just so freaking adorable.

Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

I wasn’t the only one fawning over these two houses.

Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

This style is very similar to Neo-Gothic that was big in England in the 19th century. Although, not this house. It’s from 1516 (I love it when people put dates on their houses.)

Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

So much cute.

Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

Another over the top half-timbered house.

 St.-Michaelis-Kirche. Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

Found a church, St.-Michaelis-Kirche, once part of a monastery turned school.

 St.-Michaelis-Kirche. Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

Johann Sebastian Bach graduated from the St. Michael’s School.

 St.-Michaelis-Kirche. Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

The crypt. I love it.

Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

This town is too much cute.

Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

Shopping streets tend to have a mixture of very old, old and modern buildings. It’s amazing how many buildings survived.

Am Sande, Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

Am Sande, the main town square.

Am Sande, Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

Ooooo, I like this one.

Am Sande, Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

The top portion of this building is from 1553.

Am Sande, Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

Soooo many gables.

Die Alte Raths-Apotheke, Am Sande, Lübeck, GermanyWandering Jana

Die Alte Raths-Apotheke, still an active pharmacy.

Lüneberg absolutely surprised me. It looked like a cute city to check out while I was in nearby Hamburg. I never expected it to be so well preserved. It’s a rarity in Germany to have a city of this size that wasn’t carpet bombed to oblivion. Not seen here is the Salt Museum, which is closed on Mondays, the day I visited.

 

Check out my next update where I explore Hamburg!

or

Start at the beginning of this European adventure!


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Traveling the world to discover the past.
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