Naples, Italy

Napoli. Naples is largely neglected by tourists. Why? Many people believe that there is nothing to see here. They are sadly mistaken. Naples is full of history. Pompeii, anyone!?!

Pompeii is not the only thing that the birthplace of the pizza pie has to offer; museums, churches and castles, surrounded by a charming bay, Naples can fill days of your holiday and at an affordable rate, only a short train ride away from the capital city of Rome.

While many visitors stop only for a tour of the vast ruins of Pompeii, why not stick around for a couple of days and explore Naples?

History

Naples is one of the largest continuously inhabited cities in Europe. The first Greek settlements in the area were settled as early as the 2nd millennium BCE. A Greek colony known as Parthenope developed in the 9-8th centuries BCE underneath modern-day Naples. However, what was to become Naples, Neapolis, did not develop until the 6th century BCE where the old city walls can still be seen today.

The Villa di San Marco is located in the suburbs of Naples. A fabulous standing Ancient Roman villa.

The Greek culture in Neapolis had a lasting impact on the later Roman society of the north. When the city became part of the Roman Empire, it was a major cultural center. Even after being conquered by the non-Greek Samnites in the 5th century BCE, followed by the Romans, Neapolis kept its Greek culture.

Neapolis (Naples) is famous for being in the shadow of Vesuvius. Vesuvius in 79 CE rocked the region and blanked the cities and towns its foot with tons of ash, creating a time capsule of ghastly proportions. Fortunately, Neapolis was spared. The prevailing winds blew the ash to the south of the volcano. Pompeii was not so lucky.

The port of Naples and Vesuvius in the distance.

After the fall of Rome, Naples was sacked by the same invading forces that threatened the Eternal City (Rome). In the 6th century, Naples returned to Greek rule, this time under the Byzantine Empire. After rebelling, the Duchy of Naples was created in the 7th century, which gave the area a semi-autonomous stance. In the 9th century, allegiances shifted from the Byzantine East to the Roman West, making Naples completely independent.

However, independence did not last long. Naples was captured and passed around rulers for a while, finally makings its way into the hands of Charles of Anjou (Southern France) in the 13th century. He made the Castel Nuovo his home and new Gothic churches sprung up around Naples during his reign (Duomo of San Gennaro for example). After his death, his kingdom was split up and the Kingdom of Naples was founded. It wasn’t a powerful kingdom; It was conquered a lot.

The Kingdom of Naples and Sicily was united again in 1501 under Spanish Rule. The city, under the control of the Viceroys, grew from 100,000 to 300,000 people, second to only Paris in Europe. In the 16th to 17th centuries, some of the best artists in Europe were in Naples. Their art can still be found here in museums and in churches. However, the city fell into decline after 1656, when a plague killed almost half the inhabitants of the city.

During the second half the 17th century, the Spanish Habsburgs were replaced by the Viennese ones. Not much else changed. Most the population of the city was poor and lived in horrible conditions.

The fancy Teatro di San Carlo was built by the Bourbons in 1737.

In 1806, Naples was invaded by Napoleon. Napoleon named his brother Joseph King of Naples. When Napoleon was defeated, Naples returned to the Habsburgs.

On September 6, 1861, the Kingdom of Naples was conquered by the Garibaldines and handed over to the King of Sardinia. Naples now belonged to a united Italy.

During WWII, Naples was heavily bombed by the Allies, which destroyed many works of art we can no longer get back. The people of Naples quickly rebuilt, restoring their churches and museums the best they could.

Naples often gets a bad rap among travelers these days for being dirty and crime ridden (often by people who have never been there). I can assure you it is a charming, must-see destination to visit, especially for budget travelers. The art is amazing. The food is to die for. The culture is outstanding. Everyone is beyond friendly and last but not least, history is everywhere.

Attractions

This are places I have visited and recommend for visitors to the fabulous Naples area.

Tips

While Naples is safe for tourists, still watch your belongings for pickpockets.

Wear sunscreen in the summer months.

Naples can get very hot in the summer. Be prepared for the heat.

Dinnertime in Naples does not start until 7pm. Many restaurants do not open until then for dinner. Street food will hold you over.

The metro isn’t always running. No one knows why.

The ArteCard is your best friend. If you are going to Pompeii and the Archaeological Museum, it is cheaper to get this pass, since it covers transportation in between. With the 3-day regional pass, the first 2 visits are free and everything else is half off. Free transportation, to and from attractions. It’s an amazing deal. Even some non-affiliated attractions will give you a small discount.

 

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