Italia: Wandering Herculaneum

Explorations of one of the other ancient cities buried by Vesuvius.

Herculaneum suffered the same fate as it’s sister city Pompeii. Smaller than Pompeii, Herculaneum was an elite Roman seaside resort on the Bay of Naples. Although far from the modern coastline, the city would have been right on the water when Vesuvius erupted.

Herculaneum was buried faster than Pompeii. A pyroclastic flow preserved more objects here, leaving behind papyrus scrolls, roofs, food and wooden furniture. However, Herculaneum was looted with many frescoes, mosaics and other artifacts removed. Herculaneum was all but forgotten about until a man was digging a well in 1709 and found artifacts at the bottom. Herculaneum was first excavated by digging tunnels, since the ancient city was far below modern ground level. Once Pompeii was found, efforts were relocated to that sight since they didn’t have to dig so deep to reach the ruins. The parts of Herculaneum visible today were excavated from 1927-1942. Over 75% of ancient Herculaneum still remains buried beneath modern Ercolano.

 

Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

The ancient city of Herculaneum and the modern city of Ercolano.

Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

The bottom of the structure with all the arches was the Boat House at sea level. Hundreds of people took refuge in them during the eruption while trying to escape by sea. The residents of Herculaneum had more time to escape the city than Pompeii. However, hundreds of skeletons were still found in the boat houses. It’s hard to see in this picture, but many are still there.

Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

This picture really shows how much lower the old city was. Lava and ash from other eruptions also helped bury the city more.

Casa d'Argo. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

Headed down to the city. I think this house was the Casa d’Argo.

cubicula. Casa d'Argo. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

A bedroom in what I think is still the Casa d’Argo. A bunch of insulae (multi-use buildings) no longer have walls dividing them.

street. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

The current entrance to the city.

thermopolium. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

A thermopolium on the edge of the excavation area.

Casa dei Due Atri. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

Casa dei Due Atri (House of the Two Atrium). Many second stories were preserved in Herculaneum due it’s deep burial.

Casa dei Due Atri. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

One atrium.

Casa dei Due Atri. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

Two atria.

Sede degli Augustali, Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

Sede degli Augustali, a religious school for priests of Augustus.

Sede degli Augustali, Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

Carbonized wooden beams.

shop. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

Some sort of shop.

Carbonized wooden door frame. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

Carbonized wooden door frame.

street. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

The back street of the current excavation.

street. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

My pictures are all over the place. I was avoiding school groups. March is apparently Italian field trip month.

Casa del Salone Nero. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

Casa del Salone Nero.

Casa del Bel Cortil. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

The two story Casa del Bel Cortile across the street. The second story even has a ceiling!

cubicula. Casa del Salone Nero. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

The Casa del Salone Nero also has an amazing partially restored ceiling.

Casa del Bicentenario. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

Casa del Bicentenario. Most urban Ancient Roman houses had shops along the street and a long passageway leading to the interior of the house.

Casa del Bicentenario. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

The second story was also frescoed!

Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

What could have been a three or more story building.

shop. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

A shop on the first floor and living space for the family above.

Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

It’s amazing how much of the buildings survived.

Casa Sannitica. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

Casa Sannitica. I love that columned portico on the second floor.

Casa Sannitica. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

The columns continue even on walls without second story access.

Casa Sannitica. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

Amazing mosaic.

First Pompeian Style. Casa Sannitica. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

The so called “First Pompeian Style,” traditionally dated to 200 BCE until 80 BCE. This house was built in the late 2nd century BCE. The style faked masonry with colored plaster.

bathhouse. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

Changing room at the one of the bath houses.

Casa di Nettuno e Anfitrite. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

Casa di Nettuno e Anfitrite. This house had a lovely mosaic in their dining room. The small pipe coming out from the middle of that feature in the center of the room probably once held a fountain.

Casa di Nettuno e Anfitrite. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

On the other wall is a Nymphaeum, which was a shrine to Nymphs.

Casa del Bel Cortile. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

Back to the Casa del Bel Cortile. This atrium, stairway looks very modern.

Casa del Tramezzo di Legno. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

Casa del Tramezzo di Legno. Bedroom complete with a bed.

Casa del Tramezzo di Legno. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

It took me so long to get this picture without a bunch of kids in it. On the left are a set of preserved carbonized doors.

Casa del Rilievo di Telefo. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

Casa del Rilievo di Telefo. It had a very colorful atrium.

Casa della Gemma. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

Casa della Gemma. This house isn’t even on the site map.

Casa della Gemma. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

Gorgeous mosaics in this one.

Casa dei Cervi. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

Casa dei Cervi. I wish I could have gone upstairs.

Casa dei Cervi. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

Garden in the middle of the house.

Casa dei Cervi. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

I would not be surprised if that hole in the wall was created by early tunneling.

Casa dei Cervi. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

A bit of mosaic around a doorway in the garden.

Casa dello Scheletro. Ruins of Herculaneum. Ercolano, ItalyJana Irving

Casa dello Scheletro. I believe this is a fancy larium for household deities.

This is only a small fraction of what there is to see in Herculaneum. Unfortunately. most of the really fine mosaics and frescoes and other art are now in the National Museum of Archaeology in Naples. Luckily, the king of the area liked to collect ancient art so a lot of Herculaneum made it into that museum.

Herculaneum is only a short distance from Central Naples and can usually be covered in a few hours.

 

Tune in for my next update where I head north to Orvieto!

or

Start at the beginning of this adventure.

 

About Wandering Jana

Traveling the world to discover the past.
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