Explorations of a fortified city and its neighboring fortresses.
Along the Spanish and Portuguese borders, are several fortifications, from simple forts to castles to fortresses. There was a big growth in fortresses along the border in the 17th century. In 1580, the king of Spain, Philip II, became the king of Portugal, through his mother’s line. The Portuguese weren’t very happy about being under Spain’s rule. They revolted in 1640 and named their own king. A war with Spain will last almost 3o years. Portugal fortified their side of the border to an extreme.
Fortaleza de Juromenha
The Fortress of Juromenha is south of the city of Elvas, along the Guadiana River, which forms the border between Spain and Portugal in that area. There has been some sort of fortification here since at least the medieval period. The fortress was greatly expanded in response to the 17th century war with Spain.
Wandering Jana It’s a pretty impressive fortress, which has its own castle.
Wandering Jana You can just walk right in.
Wandering Jana It’s a bit worse for wear but it is slowly being restored.
Wandering Jana Juromenha is right on the river. Good view of Spain from here.
Wandering Jana A small chapel. The fort has another larger church.
Wandering Jana A little bit of decoration still remaining.
Wandering Jana Buildings were integrated into the old castle.
Wandering Jana The Guadiana River is extra wide during the rainy season.
Wandering Jana The larger church. It was closed off so I couldn’t get inside.
Wandering Jana Ruins of rooms with fancy decoration.
Wandering Jana Views of the fortress from the top of the castle tower.
Elvas
Moving on to the fortress city of Elvas. It’s a small city but a really neat one. The entire old city is surrounded by embankments similar to those you find around military structures of the 17th century. Elvas is are the largest bastioned fortification in the world. In 2012, Elvas and some of its nearby supplement forts (one of which will be below) were named UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
I will admit that I didn’t do much research of this area before I came. I thought it looked neat on Google and it was a good place to stop for the night. I ended up spending a bit more time than I thought I would in this area. I just kept finding more neat stuff to see, like the Fortress of Juromenha.
Google I wasn’t kidding that Elvas is literally in a fortress.
Wandering Jana Fortifications on top of fortifications.
Wandering Jana I don’t know what that was used for but there were quite a few of them out there around the main fortification.
Wandering Jana I’m not sure what this building was/is used for but driving through it was a bit nerve-wracking.
Wandering Jana It was even more nerve-wracking to walk through with those narrow sidewalks in the tunnel.
Wandering Jana Walking along the top of the walls.
Wandering Jana A typical Elvas street.
Wandering Jana View of Elvas from the western walls. You are allowed to climb along the walls.
Wandering Jana Forte de Santa Luzia, one of Elvas’ supplemental forts.
Wandering Jana The Portas da Esquina (Corner Gate), the western gate.
Wandering Jana Of course I had to get a closer look. I looks like it used to have a drawbridge.
Wandering Jana People actually drive cars through this thing.
Wandering Jana It’s part of a double gate. The inner gate is topped by a chapel, Capela Nossa Senhora da Conceição.
Wandering Jana It’s a very cute chapel. The entrance is on the top of the walls.
Wandering Jana This giant building is right along the city walls. Looks like it may have once had a military function. Now it is a high school.
Wandering Jana They really do love that shade of yellow don’t they.
Wandering Jana Largo de Santa Clara.
Wandering Jana Igreja das Domínicas’ interior is completely covered in those wonderful Portuguese tiles, azulejos. Thankfully, I was able to get some pictures before someone turned the lights on. They were horrible.
Wandering Jana Found the Cathedral. I love that ceiling pattern.
Wandering Jana Very pretty.
Wandering Jana This street was lined in potted plants.
Wandering Jana And some very old buildings.
Wandering Jana Found the Castle.
Wandering Jana The castle is at the highest point of town, leading to some great views.
Wandering Jana If you look really closely, you can see another supplemental fort, Forte de Nossa Senhora da Graça.
Forte de Nossa Senhora da Graça
Located about 1 km north of Elvas, Forte de Graça is a very strategic hill to bombard Elvas from. In the 17th century, Spanish forces besieged Elvas from here and then again in 1762 during the Seven Years War. It was determined in 1763, that the hill needed a fortress as well. Finished in 1792, the fortress saw action during the Napoleonic Wars of the early 19th century. It was restored and open to the public in 2015.
Google Yeah, it’s pretty impressive.
Wandering Jana The entrance to the outer ring of fortifications.
Wandering Jana The inner ring of fortifications and its weird house.
Wandering Jana It’s separated from the exterior defenses by a dry moat.
Wandering Jana Just because it’s a fort, doesn’t mean it can’t be pretty.
Wandering Jana The inner ring has a series of rooms one, after another, around the entire circumference. The paintings are from around the 1950s.
Wandering Jana I got lost and ended up in a kitchen. This isn’t the only kitchen.
Wandering Jana There is a giant citadel in the center of the fort.
Wandering Jana This sweetheart of a cat followed me around quite a bit. A complete attention whore.
Wandering Jana The central citadel has this monumental room and a church. It was decorated during the 1950s.
Wandering Jana Upstairs is are the rooms used for the hospital.
Wandering Jana Even more upstairs is the Governor’s House. Why here? No idea.
Wandering Jana There’s also a bunch of buildings for storage/living quarters along the top of the inner circle.
Visiting Forte de Graça was not in my original plans. I only decided to visit it because I saw it from Elvas’ castle and I thought it was neat. It is really fun to explore. Highly recommend visiting everything from this post.
Check out my next update where I explore the unique towns of Marvão and Monsanto!
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Start at the beginning of this adventure!
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