Explorations of two Portuguese cities, one with a castle and one with a few apparitions.
Leiria and Fátima are located in central Portugal, about a 30 minute drive from each other. Leiria is less well known, but has a fantastic castle, and Fátima is a major Catholic pilgrimage site. So not much in common, but I’m lumping them together in the same post since they are close.
Leiria
I chose to visit Leiria because of its fantastic castle, after visiting the Ancient Roman ruins of Conímbriga. It’s on a steep hill, but I found free parking right next to the “elevator.”
It’s a combo elevator/funicular thing. I was way too amused by this. It even has a standard elevator button.
The Castle of Leiria dates from the 12th century with later medieval additions.
It’s very cute.
There was a palace built up here in the 14th century.
The main chapel, Nossa Senhora da Pena, looks like it was built in the Gothic period.
t does have a bit of 16th century late Gothic/Portuguese Renaissance, called Manueline, bits in it. The late Gothic arches start to become rounded again. But arch is actually from a different church.
Not much remains of the palace.
The remains of a room. The next room, the Great Hall, was reconstructed.
On the other side of the Great Hall is this fantastic loggia from the 14th century renovations.
The palace’s guests would have some great views.
The main keep, built in 14th century. It was used as a royal prison from the 1450s-1850s.
The castle as seen from down in the city center.
Going down the hill. São Pedro and its fancy doorway.
The castle just looms over the city.
Now for the Cathedral of Leiria.
The church was built in a Mannerist style (popular style in the 16th century) in the 16th century, with renovations after the 1755 Lisbon earthquake. That ceiling is looking very Gothic though.
The cathedral is fairly plain on purpose, but it wasn’t as plain as today. In 1810, Napoleon’s troops set the church on fire.
The inner doors are spectacular.
Now for a wander.
Praça Rodrigues Lobo.
The rest of Praça Rodrigues Lobo.
Very cute.
Mercado de Sant’Ana, a little market.
Old tuberculosis hospital.
Little river view. It was already angry before the storm.
Fátima
Fátima is known for the pilgrimage site of Our Lady of Fátima, which is the city’s main draw. In 1916-17, three shepherd children saw several apparitions of Mary. There were messages and a miracle, and now its a shrine that attracts millions a year.
The shrine is huge. It has two basilicas. The one ahead was started in 1928.
Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary. Hard to get a photo of this one due to a weird outdoor altar thing.
Pretty nice church.
The little side chapels all had altars similar to this one.
Tombs of two of the girls who saw the apparitions, cousins Lúcia dos Santos and Jacinta Marto. Jacinta died at the age of 1920 as a result of the Flu Pandemic of 1918. She was later canonized. Lúcia became a nun and died in 2005.
Tomb of Francisco Marto, Jacinta’s brother. He died in 1919 during the pandemic. He was ten when he died and was later canonized.
The Chapel of the Apparitions was constructed on the very spot the three children told others about the apparitions they saw.
Opposite the Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary is the other basilica, the Basilica of the Most Holy Trinity.
It’s giving me megachurch vibes.
Constructed started on the building in 1998. I thought it was looking very 1960s. The weather isn’t helping it look better.
Stopped to chat with a local. She was very talkative.
A path on the edge of town, called the Caminho Dos Pastorinhos, that leads you to the place the children saw apparitions.
The spot is marked with statues of Mary and the children.
Three days after visiting Leiria and two days after visiting Fátima, Storm Kristin came blowing through and caused severe damage around central Portugal, especially Leiria. The Leiria’s castle was closed for a few months for repairs after several large trees fell down. Fátima probably had similar damage. Most of the damage was caused by trees and flying debris. I saw twisted highway signs and trees everywhere. The damage wasn’t as bad a bit south. I was in Tomar, a bit east, that night and not of the worst of the path. The storm was probably one of Portugal’s worst, at least in living memory, and I slept right through it. Hurricane force line of gusts and I didn’t have a clue. I wish I could always sleep that good. This storm and the following one will be coming up a few times in the next posts on Portugal.
Leiria and Fátima are two places not on the typical tourist route in Portugal, unless you are on a pilgrimage. These are two great places to visit if you find yourself in central Portugal and have a car.
Tune in for my next update where I explore the medieval Monastery of Batalha!
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Start at the beginning of this adventure!
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