Explorations of a Southeastern Sicilian city perched on top of two hills.
Ragusa is located in southeastern Sicily. It’s very easy to reach by train from Syracuse, along with other nearby cities that deserve their own visit, such as Noto and Modica. Well, except on Sunday because the local trains don’t run, which is why I only made it to Ragusa this time around. After visiting Syracuse, I headed to Ragusa.
Ragusa is really two cities in one, Ragusa Superiore and Ragusa Ibla. The former was the first city. It was devastated by an earthquake in 1693, requiring most of the city to be rebuilt. After the earthquake, many people left Ragusa Ibla and formed what will later be called Ragusa Superiore (Upper Ragusa). These two independent cities would be joined to form a large provincial capital in 1927.
How Ragusa is laid out is a bit different from many old Italian cities. Normally, the historic center or oldest part of the city is up on a hill, with a more “modern” city down in the valleys. Ragusa is the opposite. The more “modern” city (i.e. 1700s onwards) is much higher than the old city and there is a deep valley between the two. I climbed a lot of stairs in two days.
The train station is in an even more modern area of Ragusa. A deep valley splits the it in two and then you have to climb up to Ragusa Superiore. I was not expecting that hill.
Jana Irving A road heading to Ragusa Superiore.
Jana Irving In the upper city, the details on the buildings are in this Baroque style.
Jana Irving Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista. Ragusa’s first cathedral is in the lower city. When the upper town was built, a new cathedral was added. In Italian fashion, both buildings are referred to as cathedrals or duomos, even the one that isn’t technically a cathedral anymore. This one is peak Sicilian Baroque.
Jana Irving I stayed on the edge of Ragusa Superiore, where there’s a fairly big drop towards Ragusa Ibla. The city becomes a little terraced in this area.
Jana Irving It was uphill all the way to the Cathedral in all directions. I took my backpack to the room I rented and then went back up again for food. Sicilian fast food is the best.
On my second day, I headed down to Ragusa Ibla. It was a rainy morning, not clearing up until later in the afternoon.
Jana Irving It’s a ways down there.
Jana Irving You can either go down by endless stairs or a winding road.
Jana Irving The cathedral of Ragusa Ibla is also uphill from almost every direction.
Jana Irving Still going down.
Jana Irving Finally at the bottom. Santissime Anime del Purgatorio.
Jana Irving Looking back at Ragusa Superiore.
Jana Irving One of the few roads that you can actually drive a car on.
Jana Irving It’s a bit hilly.
Jana Irving Many of the “streets” in hilly historic centers in Italy are actually just stairs.
Jana Irving These buildings are built into a cliff, either at natural caves or excavated rooms.
Jana Irving Heading up again.
Jana Irving Adorable.
Jana Irving One of the main plaza/street areas of Ragusa Ibla.
Jana Irving A former church turned auditorium. Love the roof on the former bell tower.
Jana Irving Portale di San Giorgio, one of the old city gates.
Jana Irving San Giuseppe, very Baroque church.
Jana Irving Oval churches are super hard to photograph.
Jana Irving Fontana di Piazza Duomo. It can’t be a Baroque city without a fancy fountain.
Jana Irving Piazza Duomo is the largest open space in Ragusa Ibla, except for a park.
Jana Irving I love when roads are built over.
Jana Irving Duomo di San Giorgio, finished in 1775, the reconstructed former cathedral.
Jana Irving Rainy days mean dark churches.
Jana Irving he cathedral had some really pretty chapels.
Jana Irving A potted plant garden.
Jana Irving The dome of the Duomo on the other side.
Jana Irving Spending time in this park would have been much more nicer without the pouring rain.
Jana Irving Heading back to Ragusa Superiore. It’s a bit of a climb.
Jana Irving That balcony is awesome.
Jana Irving Both Ragusa’s are surrounded by deep valleys. The railroad goes across that little stone bridge at the bottom, before going underground again.
Jana Irving All the way down. Street grids became popular again during the Baroque period.
Jana Irving Chiesa Ecce Homo, my favorite church in Ragusa.
Jana Irving I just love those blue accents.
Jana Irving Very cute.
Jana Irving Now to go into the Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista.
Jana Irving It’s also very Baroque.
Jana Irving The cathedral is pretty standard Baroque except for this frescoed chapel.
Ragusa is a great place to spend a weekend. The city can easily be a good place to go explore other Baroque cities in the area (as long as it isn’t Sunday). It’s usually a bit more lively, but it was February and rainy when I visited.
Check out my next update where I explore another Baroque city, Catania!
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Start at the beginning of this adventure.
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