Explorations of a Southeastern Sicilian city perched on top of two hills.
Ragusa is located in southeastern Sicily. It’s very easy to reach by train from Syracuse, along with other nearby cities that deserve their own visit, such as Noto and Modica. Well, except on Sunday because the local trains don’t run, which is why I only made it to Ragusa this time around. After visiting Syracuse, I headed to Ragusa.
Ragusa is really two cities in one, Ragusa Superiore and Ragusa Ibla. The former was the first city. It was devastated by an earthquake in 1693, requiring most of the city to be rebuilt. After the earthquake, many people left Ragusa Ibla and formed what will later be called Ragusa Superiore (Upper Ragusa). These two independent cities would be joined to form a large provincial capital in 1927.
How Ragusa is laid out is a bit different from many old Italian cities. Normally, the historic center or oldest part of the city is up on a hill, with a more “modern” city down in the valleys. Ragusa is the opposite. The more “modern” city (i.e. 1700s onwards) is much higher than the old city and there is a deep valley between the two. I climbed a lot of stairs in two days.
The train station is in an even more modern area of Ragusa. A deep valley splits the it in two and then you have to climb up to Ragusa Superiore. I was not expecting that hill.
A road heading to Ragusa Superiore.
In the upper city, the details on the buildings are in this Baroque style.
Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista. Ragusa’s first cathedral is in the lower city. When the upper town was built, a new cathedral was added. In Italian fashion, both buildings are referred to as cathedrals or duomos, even the one that isn’t technically a cathedral anymore. This one is peak Sicilian Baroque.
I stayed on the edge of Ragusa Superiore, where there’s a fairly big drop towards Ragusa Ibla. The city becomes a little terraced in this area.
It was uphill all the way to the Cathedral in all directions. I took my backpack to the room I rented and then went back up again for food. Sicilian fast food is the best.
On my second day, I headed down to Ragusa Ibla. It was a rainy morning, not clearing up until later in the afternoon.
You can either go down by endless stairs or a winding road.
The cathedral of Ragusa Ibla is also uphill from almost every direction.
Finally at the bottom. Santissime Anime del Purgatorio.
Looking back at Ragusa Superiore.
One of the few roads that you can actually drive a car on.
Many of the “streets” in hilly historic centers in Italy are actually just stairs.
These buildings are built into a cliff, either at natural caves or excavated rooms.
One of the main plaza/street areas of Ragusa Ibla.
A former church turned auditorium. Love the roof on the former bell tower.
Portale di San Giorgio, one of the old city gates.
San Giuseppe, very Baroque church.
Oval churches are super hard to photograph.
Fontana di Piazza Duomo. It can’t be a Baroque city without a fancy fountain.
Piazza Duomo is the largest open space in Ragusa Ibla, except for a park.
I love when roads are built over.
Duomo di San Giorgio, finished in 1775, the reconstructed former cathedral.
Rainy days mean dark churches.
he cathedral had some really pretty chapels.
The dome of the Duomo on the other side.
Spending time in this park would have been much more nicer without the pouring rain.
Heading back to Ragusa Superiore. It’s a bit of a climb.
Both Ragusa’s are surrounded by deep valleys. The railroad goes across that little stone bridge at the bottom, before going underground again.
All the way down. Street grids became popular again during the Baroque period.
Chiesa Ecce Homo, my favorite church in Ragusa.
I just love those blue accents.
Now to go into the Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista.
The cathedral is pretty standard Baroque except for this frescoed chapel.
Ragusa is a great place to spend a weekend. The city can easily be a good place to go explore other Baroque cities in the area (as long as it isn’t Sunday). It’s usually a bit more lively, but it was February and rainy when I visited.
Check out my next update where I explore another Baroque city, Catania!
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Start at the beginning of this adventure.
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